East meets West

Kedma's blend of unique culinary creations and breathtaking view of Jerusalem offer diners the opportunity to travel the world without ever leaving their table.

July 29, 2011 16:25
2 minute read.
Kedma, the Mamilla Mall's only meat restaurant.

Kedma 311. (photo credit: Courtesy)

Perusing the kosher menu at Kedma, the Mamilla Mall’s only meat restaurant, I was immediately excited by the presence of my favorite comfort foods – fish and chips, hamburgers, beef stew and, most importantly, steak – a carnivore’s dream lineup.

Though these are all definitely menu staples, my dining experience was decidedly more adventurous.

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Kedma, which means “east” in Hebrew, definitely bridges the gap between East and West with its diverse menu, offering both European and Israeli classics with a contemporary twist by chef Eran Ben-Arush.

Each course is a work of art; not even a drop of sauce is out of place on the plate. Even if a dish doesn’t suit your taste, you can at least rest assured that it will be well presented.

The menu changes every six months, which keeps things seasonal. But if you’re like me and tend to get attached to a particular dish, it can be frustrating. The offerings at Kedma will no doubt tantalize the taste buds of even the pickiest eater, while appeasing detail-oriented food aficionados.

I started with the seared foie gras (NIS 62), served in a chestnut and leek soup. The liver was perfectly seasoned and deliciously tender, and the soup was thick and creamy.

The unexpected combination of the soup and caramelized strands added a kick to the dish, making for a great start to the meal.

Next on the lineup was carpaccio of drum fish with ginger (NIS 46).

Seasoned with olive oil, lemon and sea salt, the dish was meant to be light and summery. Upon first taste, the lemon and ginger are overpowering, yet left me wanting more. The second bite, however, confirmed the overpowering flavor, so I hoped for better luck with the next course.

Fortunately, I wasn’t disappointed by the grilled veal sweetbreads (NIS 58). Crisp on the outside but cooked to perfection on the inside, the veal was served with a turnip cream sauce, which complemented the dish perfectly.

The chef’s Jerusalem mixed grill (NIS 88) was the main course of the evening. “The Next Generation,” as it was billed on the menu, consisted of a beef fillet, grilled to perfection; a very impressive lamb shoulder and chicken spleen, which I sampled but didn’t exactly devour.

Dessert was a deliciously rich chocolate mousse with candied beets, followed by a fruit plate featuring baked watermelon in caramel sauce. The watermelon was certainly an unexpected finish but was sweet and tasty nonetheless, a perfect end to the meal.

From the restaurant’s newly added balcony overlooking Jaffa Gate, diners can savor a glass of wine as they take in incomparable views of the Old City, Dormition Abbey and the city beyond. The view of the ancient with a taste of the contemporary makes Kedma a great spot to enjoy Jerusalem’s fusion of the old and new.

The writer was a guest of the restaurant.

Kedma Brasserie
Third floor of Mamilla Mall, Jerusalem (02) 500-3737
Open Sun.-Thurs. from noon until the last customer, and Friday from 11 a.m. until one hour before Shabbat.
Starters from NIS 44; main dishes from NIS 57.

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