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Chosen Bites: Latke-Palooza

By CHEF LAURA FRANKEL
LAST UPDATED: 12/02/2010 16:13
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Get your pans ready: Chef Laura Frankel brings a fresh and kosher look on the classic Hanukka treat.

 ’Faye Levy’s International Jewish Cookbook’
’Faye Levy’s International Jewish Cookbook’ Photo: DeGennaro Studios/ ’Faye Levy’s International Jewi
I admit to being somewhat of a gastronomic and a culinary discontent. I like to push the envelope and play with an idea or recipe and then move on and do it all over again. The same applies to holiday menus. I love the rituals of the Jewish holidays and the foods, but I do not like the routine recipes that often accompany those dishes. This Hanukka I am thinking outside the box and mixing it up a bit.

I love the basic latke of potatoes and onions, all crispy and golden brown with the aroma of crackling onions and fat topped with a generous dollop of homemade applesauce or sour cream. I could eat a whole platter full of them myself - on the first night. And then what? We have eight nights to celebrate. So I started thinking: How could i make this Hanukka different from all others?

I do not want an ordinary Festival of Lights. I want something spud-tacular. I want a Latke-Palooza. An extraordinary celebration of crispy fried goodness. I am going where no chef has gone before. I am going to create an abundance of delights, a different one for each night of Maccabian Madness.

Latke options are infinite. I can stick with the classic potato and onion cake as my base but I want to add some pizzazz, creating endless variations on the central theme. After all, even the little black dress needs a little “bling.” I am adding carrots, parsnips, celery root, roasted garlic, herbs, and more. These latkes will be so amazing we will want to add nights to the holiday.

I also want to play with the toppings. After all, why limit ourselves to just plain apple sauce and sour cream? Like all classics that just need a little tweak, I am updating the humble applesauce and bringing it to new heights. For Latke-Palooza, I am dolling up the modest condiment with crystallized ginger, pomegranate molasses, mango chunks, and even sweet and gooey caramelized onions. Delish!

Dust off your frying pans and potato graters and join me for my Latke-Palooza.

Chef Laura’s Latkes (Basic Latke Recipe)

I like really crispy latkes that are only slightly creamy inside. I don’t use yolks in my batter as egg yolks make doughs and batters tender. Egg whites hold the ingredients together but don’t make it soft or cakey.

2 pounds Russet potatoes, peeled and shredded (after shredding the potatoes, place them in a large bowl with ice water-they won’t oxidize and turn rust colored)
Neutrally flavored oil for frying (I prefer canola)
1 large Spanish onion, peeled and grated
3 egg whites, beaten with a whisk until frothy
3-6 tablespoons flour
2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon fresh cracked pepper

1.    Place the shredded potatoes in a large clean towel and squeeze out all of the moisture; make sure the potatoes are completely dry.
2.    Place all of the remaining ingredients in a large bowl and add the potatoes. Mix all of the ingredients together until thoroughly combined.
3.    Heat a large skillet with 1-½ inches of oil. Drop spoonfuls of latke batter into the oil. Flatten it slightly with the back of a spoon. Brown the latkes on both sides. Remove to a platter lined with paper towels.
4.    To re-heat: Place the latkes on a cookie sheet and heat in a 400 degree oven until hot.

Apple-Cranberry Ginger Sauce

This is a beautiful garnet colored tart applesauce. It is a perfect complement for the crispy latkes. The addition of ginger adds a deep citrus spice flavor that balances the vegetables in the latke.

6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped
1-cup fresh or frozen cranberries
1/3 cup sugar
1 whole cinnamon stick
2 teaspoons chopped crystallized ginger
½ cup apple cider or juice
Pinch of kosher salt

1. Place all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Cook uncovered over medium heat until the cranberries pop. Continue cooking until the excess moisture evaporates. Remove the cinnamon stick and stir to combine. The applesauce may be stored covered in the refrigerator for up to one week or frozen for up to 2 months.

Chef Laura’s Garden Variety Latke

I was so excited when I wrote this recipe and even more thrilled once I smelled the latkes sizzling away in the pan. This latke variation is so good and savory that you will want to make these all year round. I served them with a slow cooked pot roast and the Apple-Cranberry Ginger Sauce-of course.

1 ½ pounds Russet potatoes, peeled and shredded (after shredding the potatoes, place them in a large bowl with ice water-they won’t oxidize and turn rust colored)
Neutrally flavored oil for frying (I prefer canola)
1 large Spanish onion, peeled and grated
2 medium parsnips, peeled and shredded
1 medium carrot, peeled and shredded
¼ cup chopped flat leaf parsley
1 clove garlic, finely minced
3 egg whites, beaten with a whisk until frothy
3-6 tablespoons flour
2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon fresh cracked pepper

5.    Place the shredded potatoes, parsnips and carrots in a large clean towel and squeeze out all of the moisture; make sure the vegetables are completely dry.
6.    Place all of the remaining ingredients in a large bowl and add the vegetables. Mix all of the ingredients together until thoroughly combined. The mix should be slightly wet and holding together. If not, add a little more flour.
7.    Heat a large skillet with 1-½ inches of oil. Drop spoonfuls of latke batter into the oil. Flatten it slightly with the back of a spoon. Brown the latkes on both sides. Remove to a platter lined with paper towels.
8.    To re-heat: Place the latkes on a cookie sheet and heat in a 400 degree oven until hot.

Pumpkin Spice Latke

To the basic recipe Add;
 3 teaspoons cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
Pinch of ground cloves
1 cup pumpkin puree
¼ additional flour to basic latke recipe

Kale, Roasted Garlic Latke with Caramelized Onion and Apple-Caramelized Onion Compote

To the basic recipe add:
1 cup chopped kale
1 cup caramelized onions
3 tablespoons roasted garlic
¼ cup additional flour

To the compote add: 1 cup caramelized red onions

Potato, Beet, Celery Root and Parsley Latke- (Borscht Belt Latke)

To the basic recipe add:
1 cup shredded red beets
½ cup shredded celery root
1 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
¼ cup additional flour

Inside Out Potato and Mushroom Knish Latke

To the basic recipe add:
2 cups sautéed mushrooms, chopped
½ cup chopped flat leaf parsley
2 cloves garlic, minced finely


Extreme Onion Latke

To the basic recipe add:
1 cup julienned leeks, sauteed
½ cup caramelized onions
½ cup chopped scallions
¼ cup shallots
Chives
½ cup additional flour

Dragon Breath Latke

To the basic recipe add:
Add: ½ cup caramelized red onions
4 cloves garlic, sauteed
2 tablespoons roasted garlic
 ¼ cup crushed wasabi peas
1 tablespoon chopped jalapeno

To the compote add: 1 cup mango chunks and cook over medium-low heat until the mango has softened (about 15 minutes).

Chef Laura Frankel is Executive Chef for Spertus Kosher Catering and author of Jewish Cooking for All Seasons, and Jewish Slow Cooker Recipes.
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