In Season: Pear pleasure

Pears are one of the signature fruits of autumn and make a nice change of pace from summer’s delicate fruits. Though there are thousands of varieties, Bartletts are the best known in the US. In Israel, the most popular kind is called Spadona. They’re recognized by their shapely bottoms and long necks. They arrive rock-hard at the grocery store. Most pears ripen off the tree, turning from green to yellow in the store or at home, their flesh turning from crunchy and tart to creamy and super sweet and juicy. If the neck near the stem yields when pressed, it means the pear is on its way to ripening.

Firm, ripe pears are what’s needed for these recipes. Softer pears will turn mealy as they cook. Pears can be used in place of apples in any recipe. The advantage of using pears is that they allow other flavors to shine. That means you can really taste the touch of cardamom and apricot jam in the pie. Pears also have more fiber than apples: five grams to an apple’s three grams. A medium-size pear, though, has more calories: 98 calories versus an apple’s 81.

PEAR CHIPS 

Makes 20 to 30 chips 

✔ 3⁄4 cup sugar 

✔ 1⁄4 tsp. cream of tartar 

✔ 1 cup water 

✔ 2 firm pears 

Preheat oven to 100º.

In a medium-size saucepan, combine the sugar, 1 cup water and 1⁄4 tsp. cream of tartar and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and continue to simmer while slicing the pears.

Slice the pears 2-3 mm. thick, using a mandoline. Immediately immerse the pear slices in the boiling sugar. When the syrup has resumed a rapid boil, remove the slices with a slotted spoon to a plate. When cool enough to handle, place slices on a pan lined with parchment paper. Make sure the slices don’t touch or overlap. Bake 40 to 50 minutes, rotating pans halfway through baking. Once the chips take on a dry appearance, remove one from the oven and allow it to cool on the counter. If it’s crispy once it’s cooled, it’s ready.

The chips will keep for two weeks, or longer if refrigerated.

PEPPERY PEAR SALSA 

Makes six 8-ounce jars 

✔ 1 cup white vinegar 

✔ 8 cups coarsely chopped, cored, peeled pears 

✔ 3 red bell peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped 

✔ 3 green bell peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped 

✔ 1 cup granulated sugar 

✔ 2 Tbsp. salt 

✔ 2 tsp. dry mustard 

✔ 1 tsp. turmeric 

✔ 1⁄2 tsp. ground allspice 

✔ 1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 

Prepare canner, jars and lids.

In a large steel saucepan, combine vinegar and pears. Add red and green peppers, sugar, salt, mustard, turmeric, allspice and black pepper. Bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat, stirring constantly. Reduce heat and boil gently, stirring frequently, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Ladle hot salsa into hot jars, leaving 1⁄2-inch headspace. Wipe rim, center lid on jar.

Screw band down until resistance is met, then increase to finger-tip tight. Place jars in canner, ensuring they are completely covered with water. Bring to a boil and process 225-gr. and 0.5-liter jars for 20 minutes. Remove canner lids. Wait five minutes to remove jars.

Cool and store the salsa.

PEAR CAKE 

Serves 16 

✔ 13⁄4 cups all-purpose flour 

✔ 1 cup granulated sugar 

✔ 21⁄2 tsp. baking powder 

✔ 1⁄2 tsp. salt 

✔ 2 large eggs 

✔ 1 cup sour cream 

✔ 1⁄2 cup unsalted butter 

✔ 11⁄2 tsp. vanilla extract 

✔ 21⁄2 cups firm ripe pears, coarsely chopped