Seatara on the Sea: Good food is better overlooking the Mediterranean
As we learned from our second main course, Seatara knows how to cook its meat as well.
By BUZZY GORDONRestaurant Seatara overlooking the Mediterranean.(photo credit: BEN YUSTER)
The broad expanse of beach on the northernmost edge of Tel Aviv that is home to an upscale boutique hotel and residential complex is also where you will find the inviting restaurant Seatara. Its elegant interior and cozy bar vie for attention with a spacious veranda that affords an unparalleled view of white sand, blue water and a sun that turns from yellow to red as it sets.Perusing the lengthy, impressive menu and watching the sunset are best enjoyed while sipping one of Seatara’s seven specially cocktails (NIS 46-58). Several are original takes on classics: the Passion Fruit Caipirinha, for example, a tropical twist on the classic Brazilian cocktail – cachaça, sour mix and passion fruit – does little to improve on the original.The Citrus Cosmo, on the other hand – a blend of citrus vodka, Cointreau, pomegranate, ginger and orange oil – is a more Israeli version of the cranberry classic and refreshingly complex.Appetizers at Seatara appear on the menu initially in two categories: Focaccia and Vegetables. Thereafter, starters are grouped together with main courses in the categories of Fish, Seafood, and Meat & Poultry. Pastas and salads merit their own categories.Our first choice for an appetizer was a no-brainer: foie gras on toasted brioche with cardamomscented cherry tomato confit (NIS 98). The sweetness of the stewed fruit, as well as the slight astringency of the garnish of baby greens, were delicious counterpoints to the decadent richness of the goose liver. The foie gras is not always available, so it was an extra special treat to have the opportunity to try it.Our second starter was scallops on risotto with leek chips (NIS 85). The buttery scallops practically melted in the mouth. Together with the creamy, perfectly seasoned risotto and thin, crispy slivers of golden brown leek fritter, the dish was a symphony of flavors and textures.Our first main course was the seafood mix on plancha, available in two sizes (NIS 145/NIS 320). Even the smaller portion of shrimp, crystal shrimp, mussels, calamari and striped red mullet – served in a skillet, with a separate tray of dips (what the menu calls tapas) – was more than enough for two to share.Although some of the dips, like the mild tomato salsa and spicy aioli, were quite nice, we found that the exceedingly fresh seafood simmered in a savory sauce of butter and lobster stock needed absolutely no condiments.As we learned from our second main course, Seatara knows how to cook its meat as well. The filet mignon (NIS 170) was a tender, juicy and flavorful medallion of beef, and the side of whipped potatoes a truly delicious complement.The dessert menu (NIS 39-52) has some new additions, all made in-house. The apple tart tatin was both misnamed and disappointing, but the Marquise de chocolate more than made up for it. This exquisite confection combining airy chocolate mousse, thick ganache and crunchy praline hit all the right cocoa notes.Throughout our meal, the service was impeccable. Our friendly waitress Lior was constantly tearing open packages and proffering wet naps. This dimension, added to the relaxing al fresco ambience and lingering tastes of our repast, made for a genuinely memorable experience.The writer was a guest of the restaurant.Seatara Not kosher Sea and Sun 8 Rosenblum Herzl St., Tel Aviv Tel: (03) 699-6633
