When considering the wide open spaces and unique cultural and heritage
gems the Negev has to offer, it might not be a bad idea to adopt a
Beduin state of mind.
Over the years, Israel has invested
significant effort and resources in persuading various Beduin tribes to
give up their nomadic existence and to take up a more settled way of
life in new urban communities. This led to the establishment of a string
of towns in the Negev, such as Lakiya, Rahat and Kuseifa. Naturally,
the transition to permanent domiciles has impacted on day-to-day life
and generated more Western pursuits, but there are plenty of initiatives
in place to preserve at least some of the centuries old Beduin
customs.
At Lakiya, for example, the Rikmat Hamidbar (Desert
Embroidery) workshop allows local women to produce traditionally crafted
items, as well as keeping the timeworn skills alive by training the
next generations of embroiderers. Visitors can see the women at work and
buy the handmade goods at the store there. (For more information: (08)
651-3208; (08) 651-9883.)
But the best way to get a taste – often
literally – of the Beduin way of life is to seek out some of the
smaller rural communities. One such spot is Bir Hadaj in the northern
Negev, not far from Kibbutz Revivim. There, one can visit a spacious
hospitality tent run by Salman Abu Hamid. The father of five and
university-trained educator Abu Hamid runs a cozy venture, where the
proprietor is only too happy to enlighten visitors about the Beduin
ethos and provide some information about the community’s sociopolitical
state of affairs, as well as some nuggets about its history and
heritage.
Naturally, all this information goes down better with some
tasty fare, so patrons can tuck in to voluminous repasts for carnivores
and vegetarians alike. If you want to stay longer, you can roll out your
sleeping bag and get some peaceful slumber as the desert settles in for
the night.
(For more information: 050-989-9941.) There is more
where that came from at Nahal Arika, near Mitzpe Ramon, courtesy of
father of eight Salman Sadan.
The community maintains a mostly
traditional tribal lifestyle, and its members live in tents and
makeshift structures dotted around the arid vicinity. Each family has a
sheep pen, although many of the family heads earn their crust outside
the community.
Sadan, who speaks English and Hebrew well, offers
guided tours of the area, tales from the annals of the local Azazme
tribe, as well as rustic accommodation, meals and sweet Beduin tea.
Visitors can also obtain information about the best places to see in the
area, as well as tips on 4x4 routes. And they can even experience some
quintessential desert camel transportation. The community is also doing
its best to maintain a sustainable way of running its affairs, with many
of the local residents hooked up to solar-powered electrical points.
(For more information: 054-349-6743.)
Farther north on Route 40,
opposite the remains of the Nabatean city of Avdat, there is a
delightful stopoff and stopover run by Aid Elkashahar, who also earns a
living as a Nature and Parks Authority inspector. The 30 or so families
living there keep herds of sheep, engage in small-scale agriculture and
take on odd jobs in the area, with Elkashahar’s cozy tent accommodation
providing a further source of income. The proprietor is happy to take
visitors on a tour of the village, including the primary school that is
attended by Beduin children from many of the communities scattered
around the region between Sde Boker and Mitzpe Ramon. (For more
information: 050-441-3212.)
Sfinat Hamidbar (Desert Ship), run by Farhan
Shalibi, located opposite Golda Park near the Mashabim Junction, also
offers plenty in the way of Beduin hospitality. A 20- minute drive from
Beersheba, Sfinat Hamidbar serves as the starting point for trips and
treks around the area, as well as providing accommodation, meals and
catering services for a wide range of events. Kosher food is on offer,
and weddings and bar mitzvas, as well as company functions, are
frequently hosted there. Sfinat Hamidbar accommodation services
incorporate comfortable caravan and bungalow facilities, as well as more
rudimentary sleeping arrangements on mattresses. (For more information:
(08) 655-7318 and 052-390-0020.)
Salem Abu Siam of Rahat also offers an
interesting way to get a handle on the Beduin milieu in the Negev.
Abu
Siam offers a range of tours, which includes guided visits to Rahat, a
desert agriculture trip and visits to a Beduin livestock farm and
forays to various Beduin hospitality tent sites around the area. (Abu
Siam can be contacted at 050-624-1570 and
Salem.as47@gmail.com.)
Other desert khan and tent hospitality and accommodation, as well as
camel rides and glimpses of the traditional Beduin lifestyle, are
available at Khan Hashayarot near Sde Boker. It offers camping
facilities, as well as cabin and Beduin tent accommodation, camel, jeep
and bicycle tours (For information: (08) 653- 5777 and
www.shayarot.com).
Khan Be’erotayim near Nitzana also offers similar activities and services. (For more details: (08) 655-5788 and
www.beerotayim.co.il.)
And if you want to get an overview of the whole Beduin experience,
visit the Joe Alon Center and the Museum of Beduin Culture near Kibbutz
Lahav, just north of Beersheba. The center houses attractive specimens
of traditional arts and crafts, as well as historical information and
permanent and temporary exhibitions. (For more details: (08) 991-3322
and
www.joealon.org.il.)
This article was made possible with the help of the Israel Ministry of Tourism. www.goisrael.gov.il