Looking for something to eat midday in Tel Aviv and trying to avoid yet another felafel or humous, I came across a small place with an interesting sign and an attractive entranceway. I discovered that the restaurant boasted a traditional Turkish kitchen and decided to try it. The restaurant was in a commercial area of the city, and the casual atmosphere matched its environs. I was in a rush and didn't want to bother with a menu; I asked the waitress and Sabi Dalua, the owner, what they recommended. They were very helpful and pleasant, and in the end I looked at the plate of the man sitting next to me, and seeing what looked colorful and interesting, I told the waitress, "bring me the same thing." I received a portion of shwarma meat along with rice and vegetables, known in Turkish as "doner kebap." The dish was tasty and generous. The other patrons were a middle-aged crowd, most of whom appeared to work in the area - at a court, a nearby newspaper, a motorcycle repair shop, etc. For dessert, I ordered "kazandibi," a dairy cake, and a traditional Turkish tea. The atmosphere was very pleasant,the food very good and the price very reasonable. Gefen Restaurant - Turkish traditional kitchen Rehov Schocken 19, Tel Aviv. Tel. (03) 682-7788 Business lunch from noon to 4 p.m.: NIS 35-59 Open weekdays till 11:30 p.m.; Friday: noon - midnight; Saturday: noon - 6:30 p.m. Closed Sundays. Not kosher.