What the neighbors are eating

If you're running out of ideas for what to serve at the end of the holiday stretch, try peeking into other cultures' kitchens.

By NOELLE CARTER
This year, Rosh Hashana coincided with the start of Id al-Fitr, the three-day holiday signaling the end of Ramadan, Islam's holiest month. It seems appropriate to peek into our neighbors' kitchens and check out their traditional dishes - especially if by the end of the Jewish holiday marathon you are running out of quirky kitchen ideas. According to culinary historian and former Los Angeles Times food writer Charles Perry, "'Fitr,' or the 'breaking of fast,' is traditionally associated with sweets." The recipes here commemorate this holiday. The two recipes - milky rice pudding (muhalbiyat al-ruz) and cardamom-saffron sponge cake ('igaili) - are from Sarah al-Hamad's upcoming cookbook Cardamom and Lime: Recipes From the Arabian Gulf, celebrating the rich cuisines of the Arabian Gulf - Kuwait, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Oman and the United Arab Emirates. Introducing her pudding, Hamad notes the popularity of milky desserts in the Middle East and describes regional variations thickened alternately with rice, rice flour and even corn flour. In this recipe, Hamad uses soaked rice that's partly pureed in a blender before it's cooked. This gives the pudding a textured yet silky feel. It's a simple recipe; the pudding's not too sweet and subtly perfumed with cardamom and rose water. Prepare it up to a day ahead, and serve chilled with a sprinkling of chopped pistachios. The light, airy texture of the sponge cake showcases the sweet dates, walnuts and sesame seeds added to the batter. It's very aromatic, liberally spiced with cardamom, saffron and turmeric. MUHALBIYAT AL-RUZ (MILKY RICE PUDDING) "Milky desserts are very popular in the Middle East, and this one is a particular favorite - the rice thickens to give it texture," Hamad writes. "There are many ways of making muhalbiya: with rice, with rice flour, or with corn flour, the way it is made in Lebanon and Syria. Top with chopped pistachios to add some color and crunch." Makes 6 servings 4 1 cup basmati rice 4 4 cups whole milk 4 6 to 8 Tbsp. sugar, as desired 4 1⁄2 tsp. green cardamom seeds, crushed 4 3 Tbsp. rose water 4 1⁄4 cup chopped pistachios, toasted Wash rice and let it soak for 30 minutes. Rinse until water runs clear, then drain. Put rice and 1 cup cold water in a blender and process until the liquid becomes milky and the mixture begins to thicken to a paste-like consistency, about 15 seconds. Set aside. In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, warm milk over medium heat and add sugar. Increase the heat to high and stir frequently with a wooden spoon until the milk mixture begins to bubble around the sides of the pan. Reduce the heat to a simmer and continue to cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the rice and cook at a very gentle simmer until the contents are thickened and the rice is al dente, 15 to 20 minutes. Be careful to stir frequently, scraping the bottom and sides of the pan so the pudding cooks evenly. Add 1 cup boiling water, stir in the crushed cardamom seeds and rose water, and cook at a low simmer until the water is incorporated and the pudding again thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and divide among 6 serving bowls or glasses. Allow to cool, then refrigerate, covered, until desired. Serve sprinkled with chopped pistachios. 'IGAILI (CARDAMOM-SAFFRON SPONGE CAKE) "This is the Arabian version of sponge cake, perfumed with the evocative scents of the East and traditionally accompanied by a cup of sweet black tea," Hamad writes. "It is the perfect cake: satisfying yet light, aromatic but subtle, enfolding a variety of seductive ingredients like sweet dates and sesame seeds, saffron and cardamom, and walnuts." Cardamom is assertive, so decrease the amount for a lighter taste. Makes 12 servings 4 Pinch of saffron threads 4 6 soft-packed dates, pitted 4 5 eggs 4 3⁄4 cup sugar 4 1 heaping tsp. ground cardamom 4 Pinch of turmeric 4 1 cup flour 4 2 tsp. baking powder 4 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 4 1 Tbsp. sesame seeds, divided 4 1⁄4 cup chopped walnuts, or other nuts of your choice Heat oven to 175ºC. Soak saffron in 2 tablespoons of very warm water for 20 minutes, then set aside. Mash dates with a fork, then roll the small mashed pieces into small pea-sized balls (about 2 dozen) and set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, whisk together the eggs and sugar until light, fluffy and almost meringue-like in texture, 7 to 10 minutes. Gently whisk in the cardamom and turmeric. In a small bowl, sift together flour and baking powder, then slowly add them to the egg mixture while whisking. Continue whisking and add the saffron-infused water and oil just until combined. Grease a round 23-cm. springform or regular cake pan with butter and line with parchment paper. Butter the top of the parchment paper. Dust the bottom and sides with 2 teaspoons of sesame seeds. Pour 1⁄2 of the cake mixture into the pan, scatter with the tiny date balls, then cover with the remaining mixture and a last sprinkling of sesame seeds. Top with chopped walnuts. Bake for 35 minutes, or until the cake is golden brown on top (a toothpick inserted in the middle should come out clean). Cool the cake, then release the spring and turn upside down onto a plate. Invert again and serve with a spoonful of creme fraiche or a scoop of vanilla ice cream. (Los Angeles Times)