Good food and natural charm

The intimate aura of Night Kitchen makes it an ideal getaway.

By
March 2, 2015 16:30
3 minute read.
Night Kitchen restaurant

Night Kitchen restaurant. (photo credit: PR)

 
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Located on Tel Aviv’s trendy and eclectic Lilienblum Street, Night Kitchen is an intimate place, and its unadorned charm makes you feel right at home.

Night Kitchen’s management is a marvel of efficiency. From the moment guests are greeted by the host and seated by knowledgeable waiters, each step is carefully supervised. The dim lights, intimate design and music all contribute to the special atmosphere of the place.

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Created by chef Boaz Peled, the menu is quite extensive, with a wide array of salads, pastas, fish and meat dishes. Diners can choose to order from the rich menu or have the tasting menu (NIS 180 per person; NIS 240 with wine/cocktails) and surrender to the chef completely.

We had the pleasure of sitting near the bar, with a full view of the chef and his sous-chefs creating their gastronomy magic in an open kitchen.

Our waitress was friendly and made us feel at ease. She took her time explaining details of dishes and drinks. She started by bringing us the tomato carpaccio (NIS 38) with croutons, za’atar leaves and labaneh cream. It was fantastic. The dressing was perfect, the tomatoes were at just the right ripeness, and the flavors blended together like magic.

This was followed by the mackerel confit (NIS 58) served on freake with yogurt tahini, parsley, lemon and chili. It was definitely not the food item I was looking forward to, but it turned out to be my favorite dish. Usually an oily fish with a strong flavor, this preparation of the mackerel was restrained and meltingly delicious.

Next up was the half house gnocchi (NIS 42) with oyster mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, asparagus and Parmesan. It was as good as it sounds: rich mushroom flavor and soft, decadent gnocchi.



The mushrooms and asparagus really shone through, and we never felt as if the pasta was too doughy or plain, which is a common symptom of bad gnocchi. Additionally, the Parmesan wasn’t too strong – it was well balanced.

In between, we were treated to two glasses of Chanson Rouge (NIS 46) from the Clos de Gat Winery, as well as a Merlot (NIS 32) from the Bravdo Winery. Both were fantastic and the perfect accompaniment to our food.

For the main course, we had sea bream (NIS 72) with roasted white carrots in a burnt pepper and hazelnut sauce. It was exquisite in presentation and flavor, and the delicateness of the fish was a good contrast to the other, stronger flavors.

This was followed by the hanger steak (NIS 78/138) with a side of tomato and pickled lemon salsa and horseradish crème fraiche. The steak was very tender with a nice char crust and worked well with the horseradish. It came out pre- sliced, which made it easy to share.

We ordered hot drinks and took another breather. Then came dessert, which consisted of crème brulée lollipops. They were perfectly sweetened and delicious.

The dipping sauces (vanilla bean and raspberry coulis) were also very well balanced and uniquely flavorful. Next up was a bread pudding, which is a new addition to the Night Kitchen menu. This was the first time I’d ever bread pudding so I can’t really compare it to any other place or know if it was properly prepared, but it was amazing. It came with chocolate sauce and some whipped cream on the side, which was just perfect.

Night Kitchen is a great place for couples and small groups. It has a gentle sweetness to it, a romantic energy in the evening that is perfect for a quick getaway from the busy city just beyond the entrance.

The writer was a guest of the restaurant.

Night Kitchen Not kosher 43 Lilienblum, Tel Aviv Tel: (03) 566-0481(03) 566-0481

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