Loving cupful

The first ever ‘Diplocoffee’ gathers ambassadors to Israel to promote their countries’ strong stuff.

By DEBI LERNER-RUBIN
‘Diplocoffee’ event gathers ambassadors to Israel to promote their countries’ coffee (photo credit: DEBI LERNER-RUBIN)
‘Diplocoffee’ event gathers ambassadors to Israel to promote their countries’ coffee
(photo credit: DEBI LERNER-RUBIN)
When Yitzhak Eldan met with Shira Vondmgen for coffee when first becoming acquainted, neither imagined the impact or potential influence of Vondmgen’s simple, frank response to the beverage served them.
They met at one of the best hotel cafes in the Tel Aviv area, with an excellent reputation for everything served, including the joe. Ambassador Eldan (yes, ambassador) had lived and experienced the sophistication of the world’s cultural heights while serving in the diplomatic corps. This was good coffee, of high standards, served properly; Eldan proclaimed it a pretty good cup.
The young woman who sat before him, though not as experienced or traveled, knew differently. “The best coffee comes from Ethiopia,” she firmly pronounced. And Vondmgen indeed knows excellent, genuine coffee.
Thus, their professional relationship began. Eldan is the president of the Ambassadors Club and Vondmgen is its manager, aptly assisting the ambassador.
And so the story begins.
Not long after, Eldan met with the Vietnamese ambassador and mentioned the extraordinary coffee of Ethiopia. “Oh no, the very best coffee comes from Vietnam,” Hanoi’s envoy insisted. It seemed every time Eldan met with an ambassador from a coffee-producing country, they too would claim the world’s most superior coffee as their own.
Enter veteran Jerusalem Post reporter Greer Fay Cashman. The ambassador, who clearly holds Cashman in high esteem, relayed the story to her and she responded, “Now you have something to organize!” That was the “aha moment” that set the wheels in motion for what would become Diplocoffee, the latest Israeli contribution to the international gastronomic celebration.
As the world has shrunk into a global village, foodies are increasing, exploring and discovering edible treasures and delicacies. Marketing of local gastronomy is pushing capitalistic possibilities, while helping and possibly saving some struggling economies – and Israel has jumped on that bandwagon with the launch of Diplocoffee.
Hosted at Loveat at the Tel Aviv Port, the first Diplocoffee was packed at the opening on February 25. Aiming to build and promote the industry of the Jewish state’s brew-producing friends, there were two long rows of tables covered with coffees of the world. Ambassadors from Brazil, Vietnam, Colombia, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Peru, Honduras, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Thailand, the Dominican Republic, Kenya, the Democratic Republic of Congo, the Republic of Congo, the Philippines, Angola and Panama joined representatives of their nation’s growers, who proudly shared samples.
Italian Ambassador Francesco Maria Talo was honored and given special status at the event, since Italy plays such an enormous role in coffee culture, as master roasters.
Thanks to successes in diplomacy, technology and agriculture, Israel has very good relations with many of these countries, and hopes to see each reach its potential.
WHY COFFEE? Israelis love coffee.
Israel is among the top 40 consumers of joe internationally, according to ChartsBin, with an annual average of 3.8 kg. per person,. Eldan reports close to $1 billion of coffee business, with the brew in 1,500 coffee houses nationally.
Wherever we go, we bring our coffee, drink it and share it; Israel possesses a true coffee culture.
Coffee is the most traded tropical commodity. In 2014, 68.44 million bags of Arabica and 43.56 million bags of Robusta were exchanged. How much does a bag weigh? It varies depending on the country growing the coffee, but usually comes in at between 45.6 kg. and 70 kg.
Arabica beans are generally larger, better- quality and more flavorful, while Robusta is a smaller, higher-caffeine, easier- to-grow variety. Of course, some varieties of Robusta have extraordinary flavor and qualities that trump an Arabica – but that’s for the experts to sort and blend.
Coffee exporting is a $20b. annual business, yet many coffee-growing countries are among the poorest in the world.
Over 70 countries grow coffee, all along the equatorial belt. But not all countries on the belt can grow it, as it takes very specific conditions to produce coffee beans (known as “cherries”), and perfect conditions to produce excellent product. There is plenty to gain by promoting, encouraging and marketing these countries’ goods.
Some coffee-producing countries have very successfully promoted and built their economies with their beans. Some have created reputations through brilliant marketing, while others – with great potential – struggle to survive and get their product to the marketplace.
Baudouin Kukumbi, ambassador of the Democratic Republic of Congo, emphasized his country’s struggles to realize successful coffee production and export despite war. Now it is back in business, growing both Arabica and Robusta varieties. “Congo is the heart of Africa and the heart of coffee,” he told me. “We are happy for this promotional opportunity, and hope we will do good business and improve our economy in developing this product.”
The gentlemen at the Vietnamese section had a charming and extraordinary little brewer. Having never heard of Vietnamese coffee, I was quite curious; they were eager to share both information and tastes. The cup was quite a surprise, spicy yet smooth and rich, very different from any other coffee I’d experienced. I’m not sure who was more excited about this discovery, they were so enthusiastic.
While we spoke, we were joined by another perky visitor – who turned out to be Ido of HTCafe.co.il, an established site devoted to individual consumer sourcing, roasting and just about all things coffee in Israel. Having visited Vietnam, he shared his initial surprise at the excellent coffee there, adding that it is particularly good cold.
Most impressive is the Kenyan Coffee Cooperative Exporters. Formed a decade ago, the KCCE has organized growers, mostly small farmers; they offer guidance, assistance and education while working with bankers and importers to raise and stabilize quality and increase productivity and profits. At Diplocoffee, it became clear that they are pretty savvy at marketing, with excellent printed and recorded material.
The display of nations at Loveat was exotic and colorful, enhancing the delightful coffee perfume that permeated the air at this small festival.
With all the varieties presented in small cups, many flavor descriptors were easily tasted – and there were some extraordinary joes. Like wine, coffee is often described in seemingly poetic terms, but with far more characteristics, notes and layers than wine (according to coffee mavens) – with particular vintages and vino qualities often used in describing coffee. Although the coffees of each country were strictly single- origin in the cup, everyone was mixing, sharing and enjoying.
The local “coffeerata” was well-represented.
Ram Evgi of Coffee-Tech Engineering, which builds roasting and brewing systems used internationally, was pleased and shared his optimism that the event will better our local coffee culture.
In the future, Eldan and the Ambassadors Club will be celebrating and promoting wines.
There is no need to read the grinds, as it is clear these diplomatic innovators have lots of delicious delights brewing, with many promising blends.