TARQUINA, Italy – Tarquinia: The very name is evocative. Despite having been to
Italy seven times, I had never heard of Tarquinia until last summer. But will
spreading the word spoil this gem? Where is Tarquinia? In the province of Lazio,
less than 90 minutes north of Rome.
Grassy mounds of the mysterious
Etruscan people, buried for thousands of years, grand villas and gardens,
prize-winning pizza and a medieval city that charms. A population of perhaps
17,000 in winter swells to 40,000 in summer, as Italians flock to its
There I was amid 38 bell towers – the higher the tower, the
wealthier the family.
These towers are from the Middle Ages.
that is recent considering that the warlike Etruscans flourished here from the
8th to the 5th century BCE. Their burial tombs were like Egypt’s – graves were
about taking it with you, be it bones, wheels, food, drink, makeup, or sacred
objects. So far archaeologists have found 6,400 tombs! Anthropologists and
archeologists “dig” Tarquinia.
On my way to the mounds, I stopped at the
National Museum of Tarquinia, in the 15th-century Palazzo Vitelleschi, cool and
comforting on a hot day. Marvelous lions from the 4th century BCE dutifully
protect the dead. Terracotta winged horses, originally red, white and yellow,
are now faded, but their pose infuses them with vitality.
of these ancient, hard-tocategorize people was on display: candelabras, vessels,
a helmet, small sculptures...
and the classic Greek vases of black and
orange. Mystery solved, as this indicates trade with Greece and Egypt,
None other than the author of Lady Chatterley’s Lover
, D. H.
Lawrence, who disliked museums, was nevertheless entranced with this one. “If I
must have museums, let them be small, and above all, let them be local,” he
Lawrence may have been referring to the fact that Villa Giulia, in
Rome (not local), has some of the very best Etruscan treasures.
superbly renovated – sleek, light and airy. Don’t miss it, but don’t miss
Tarquinia either, the true home of these rare objects.
We next explored
the tombs of those still-dead Etruscans. Below several acres of undulating
grassy hills were the circular burial houses. Late in the day, to avoid the
summer sun, we slipped down into several tombs.
At the Tomb of the
Hunter, a guide explained the high social standing of the person who
commissioned this sepulcher, in which we see animals hunted. The stone
containers date from the Early Iron age. Yet the Tomb of the Jugglers was
discovered only in the 1960s.
Then we stooped low to get to the most
famous tomb: the Hunters and Fishermen.
One room in the tomb has
paintings of hunting, the other fishing. Simple, but not primitive. Birds,
dolphins, people: all pulse with energy and movement. No wonder this is a World
Heritage site! Amid these ancient events are new happenings.
was filming in Tarquinia for a television series, The Borgias. In the harbor are
the remains of the Costa cruise ship that foundered on the rocks.
that is depressing. Let’s eat.
IT IS Saturday night in Tarquinia. At the
Arcadia Restaurant, dining al fresco, classical music wafts over from City Hall.
This is living, breathing City Hall, whose main room has vibrant frescoes
painted in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Tarquinia is a truly medieval
city. The fountain in the town square still pours forth. Clusters of houses,
many small, some grand, all aged, are still in use. Churches abound. And, of
course, those bell towers, even more than San Gimagnano, famous for its bell
towers. The Church of San Martino was built in 1051 CE; its doors – stark,
simple, black-and-white trim – signal its age. Homes on cobblestone streets
stand at unexpected angles. That lends a cozy, communal feel. Poet Titta Marini
lived in one of them; now a square is named for him.
On our walk in Old
Town we came to a particularly beautiful, romanticallylit church, surrounded by
Castello Park. Named Santa Maria, this is where The Borgias was shot. Who could
resist such a setting? Inside the church sanctuary, white rose petals were
strewn over the stone floor, the remnants of a wedding that took place just
hours earlier. Through spaces in huge stone pillars and with moonlight
descending from the domed ceiling, I see the 12th-century church’s lovingly
restored dark wood pews. In this intimate, elegant space, they all bear names –
Ottavia, Draghi, Arcangela, Abbelino, Folgari – families that worshipped here
for perhaps 19 centuries! I climb worn stairs to the bell tower and onto the
balcony for views of the park below. A rock band plays in the
It turns out that this is a private park, whose owner, Bruno,
shares it with the townspeople. He invited us to visit and sip wine from his own
vineyard. Well past midnight, we depart to sleep easily in soft country
The next day we’re awakened by Sunday church bells. We set out for
Villa Lante in Viterbo. Large gray stones make up the villa, another place of
wealth and power. It doesn’t seem over 800 years old.
The entrance hall
is a stunner. Frescoes fill the whole room. This feels like entering another
But soon we’re back in the villa’s formal gardens. Sternly
symmetrical, the idea here is that man tames nature. The garden was ablaze with
hydrangeas, rhododendron and azaleas. Actually these are garden rooms. In the
16th century, this part was built so that the vast expanse could be used for
eating outdoors. All about were loggias, long stone tables, and grotesques with
fascinating stone faces. I wanted to picnic right there.
Instead, we were
off to another famed villa: the Palazzo Farnese. It looks like three separate
palaces stacked together. Under a Della Robbia blue sky, we walked through the
grassy moat into the outdoor atrium.
Frescoes in soft exquisite colors
This is the home of the Farns family, whose name is written
in the courtyard.
The frescoes, by Antonio Tempesta, seem like imitations
of famous ones in Pompeii.
Then we see the hands-down best part: a
winding staircase; the walls covered with an elaborate fresco. Built in 1520,
these herringbone- pattern steps were designed for horses. Up these stairs rode
men on horseback or in carriages to reach their rooms.
Suddenly we hear
fireworks. It is 12:50 p.m., and a wedding has just ended. No time to throw
rice; we’re off to a pizza extravaganza. In Caprarola, a town of red tile roofs
and small streets, we dined at an unassuming pizzeria. But i2 Gallozzi’s
thincrust pizzas are award winners. We sat down to a flurry of pizzas, one more
ravishing than the next. One had pumpkin flowers, another salmon, a third,
anchovy, and then a vegetable pizza with cherry tomatoes and arugula. Dayenu
But no; it was time to try the pizza that took first prize at
the World Championship Pizza contest, a four-cheese pizza with porcini mushroom
cream, created by owner and pizza maker Patrizio Moretti. We say thanks and
But no: It is time for a dessert pizza – a nutella of
homemade hazelnuts and chocolate. Dayenu? No. Next biscotti, chestnuts in cream,
amaretti and biscotti.
In Italy, it was the Lord’s Day, and it sure was
Stuffed, we drove through a field of sunflowers to meet more
Etruscans at Cerveteri.
Through the umbrella pines, olive trees, and
cypresses, we glimpse round stone huts. How eerie this City of the Dead, where
sacrifices were performed and where whole families were buried, with their
belongings, in a single tomb, nine centuries before the Common
Videos explain that sculptures and sarcophagi were pieced together
again after earthquakes, water, rats and countless centuries nearly destroyed
them. The Central Tomb can hold 19 sarcophagi.
One tomb contained Greek
vases; another held skeletons. Pottery depicts wrestlers, discus throwers and
runners. We are seeing the joy of life and the sorrow of death.
On the way back to town, we are close to the Mediterranean and
Tarquinia’s beaches, crowded with families, many from Rome.
kilometers of beaches, bars, restaurants and apartments line the blocks of Lido
da Tarquinia. I look forward to returning to them, and to frescoes, marble
sarcophagi, medieval houses, and, of course, pizza. Now I know where to go to