Today, three years ago, I still found myself looking for summer wine trends. Since then, a war broke out. And then another one. And another one. The cyclical preoccupation with wine variety trends, seasonal trends, and various other daily matters was pushed aside. We switched to survival mode in our drinking as well.
Nevertheless, I feel like bringing back this mental escapism ahead of the upcoming summer. Thoughts create reality.
It is no secret that the new–old trend of wine bars in Israel does not come from Burgundy or Provence, but from Spain. From Galicia, to be precise: Albariño. You have surely come across it on menus recently.
This is a variety that was relatively anonymous until recently, and suddenly it is starting to appear everywhere. Not only in Israel, but also in wine bars around the world, especially in places that serve fish and Mediterranean dishes, but not exclusively.
Why Albariño? Why now?
Why am I writing about it specifically now? Because lately, when I see it on a menu, and I see it a lot, I do not even hesitate to taste it first; I simply order it, and it always works out for me.
Perhaps because this is a wine that does not try to impress by force. It is not heavy, it is not oaky like Chardonnay, and it is not as unequivocal as Sauvignon Blanc. It possesses a fun saltiness, like taking a bite of a pretzel with a salt crystal of the exact right size.
It is suitable for the weather that is starting to become humid and heavy, and nothing happens to it if you open it at noon, put it in the refrigerator, and finish it the next day.
When I tried to figure out what caught my attention about it, I realized that unlike many trendy wines, it manages to do something they cannot: To be accessible without being too forced or sensitive in definitions.
I assume that the local drinking culture, especially after the recent years here, is looking less for bombastic titles and more for accessibility and comfort, perhaps also because of the price.
This is not a wine you need to understand; it is local in vibe, it has the character of the sea, and it is highly likely that even someone who does not drink wine on a regular basis will fall in love with it.
Recommended Albariño wines
Vionta, Albariño: A premium wine at a supermarket price (NIS 85) from the Salnés Valley. On the one hand, you can drink it like water; on the other hand, it is also festive enough for dinner to hold up even investment-heavy dinners.
Martín Códax, Albariño: A wine from the Galicia region that you will find in most delicatessens (NIS 79). The kind of bottle that does not even need food alongside it and is fun to open on a bench in some park. Just do not forget to bring an opener with you as well.
La Val, Albariño: For those looking for something a bit more upscale in the genre. It has a summer greenness and is wonderfully culinary: Especially if there is seafood or fish on your plates. (NIS 99).