A slew of brews
By JASON MESKIN
01/31/2013 13:49
Porter & Sons in Tel Aviv has an abundant supply of good food, beer and ambience on tap.
Porter & Sons Photo: Courtesy
Israel boasts more than a dozen boutique breweries scattered around the country,
such as the Golan Brewery in Katzrin, the Malka Brewery in the western Upper
Galilee and the Negev Brewery in Kiryat Gat. And more are soon to
come.
Some say Israelis are acquiring a more sophisticated palate, some
say that the rise of imported premiums is changing the way beer is perceived,
while others assert that the country is simply mimicking the United States,
where the microbrewery phenomenon started in the late 1970s.
Those
strictly looking for beer in Tel Aviv can head to Porter & Sons. Opened
three years ago, this neighborhood pub has more than 70 varieties of beers,
which are perfectly paired with local dishes and appetizers.
Dark wood,
brick walls, antiquated light fixtures with ceiling fans and a very long bar
with an impressive row of oldfashioned wooden beer-tap handles come together
nicely in this spacious restaurant, where beer placards and mirrors make up much
of the decor.
The menu varies from salads and cheese plates to fish &
chips, homemade sausages and BBQ spare ribs. Aside from its set menu, Porter
also offers a wide variety of specials that change every week.
My dining
companion and I began with the fresh mozzarella salad (NIS 42). It was a summery
combination of leaves, mozzarella and strawberries, with a subtle flavor that
was slightly sweetened. It was a big hit with both of us. This was
followed by delicious sauteed mushrooms (NIS 38) in olive oil, garlic, oregano,
sherry and white wine, as well as a very tasty herring (NIS 36) in beer
marinade, served on toast with sour cream.
Next up was an artichoke
risotto (NIS 42) with mint and lemon zest. Though risotto is not the featured
dish at this pub, it was one of the highlights of our meal.
To quench our
thirst in between starters, we sampled a bottle of Weston’s Old Rosie Cider, as
well as some Brooklyn Summer Ale. Both were fantastic.
It was
difficult to choose a main course from the tempting variety. We finally
settled on the rib eye steak (NIS 124) and the sirloin (NIS 98). Both were done
to perfection, medium-rare, tender and full of flavor, with the side dishes
providing excellent accompaniment.
Porter & Sons is a perfect
afterhours place to go, no matter what angle you look at it. The crowd always
changes, and the beer keeps flowing. I have the distinct feeling that Porter,
with its delightful atmosphere, good food and drink, will be around for a long
time to come.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.
Porter
& Sons
Not kosher
14 Ha’arbaa Street, Tel Aviv
(03) 624-4355