The town of Dohuk in northern Iraq is an unusual destination of choice for a foreign traveler.

It is a dusty, raucous, border town near the Syrian border, surrounded by mountains and close to the Tigris River. But it was to Dohuk that I made my way, after my contacts from the Kurdish PYD (Democratic Union Party) in Erbil told me that this would be my point of entry into Syrian Kurdistan.

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