Fiesta – and high stakes – in the shuk

A vast plan of change and attractions kicked off this week at Jerusalem's Mahaneh Yehuda market.

Recent scene at Mahaneh Yehuda (photo credit: TOMER DROR)
Recent scene at Mahaneh Yehuda
(photo credit: TOMER DROR)
The middle-aged bald man, busy closing his stand in one of the narrow alleys of Mahaneh Yehuda this past Sunday evening, couldn’t have sounded angrier or more frustrated.
“I was literally born in the shuk; I grew up here, with my father, who bought this stand. The shuk is my whole life, I even live nearby, but now they’ve killed it,” he said, refusing to elaborate.
Two other stall owners added a few remarks, as bitter as their neighbor’s, but all refused to go into details, beyond repeating a mantra: “They are killing the shuk for the big money.”
Mahaneh Yehuda, which in recent years has become a landmark for tourists, is not only a successful place for an exotic open market and eateries and bars. Under this nice and attractive cover lie anger, bitterness and fears that what has been for decades a symbol of this city is close to its end.
There are several reasons for this, and the accusing fingers are pointed toward various persons and institutions.
But among the merchants selling vegetables, fruit, meat and fish, or what is commonly called here the authentic shuk, the complaint is that the changes – nightlife and attractions – are killing the market.
Basically, what is wrong and causing such concern among the merchants is the lack of balance between day and nightlife in the compound. How can a market known for its fresh merchandise survive when it changes its appearance and purpose at night? Perhaps the more important question is, who is in charge? Who is accountable for this fragile equilibrium? Deputy Mayor Ofer Berkowitz says he cares about the shuk. His party, Hitorerut, holds the portfolio for small businesses in the city center. (The portfolio is in the hands of the party’s No. 2, Einav Bar, but she had to step back for fear of conflict of interests, since her husband is an associate in one of the largest eateries in the shuk).
Berkowitz has come up with budgets for outdoor music events near the market, to attract more clients.
“This does not solve the basic problems we have here,” said Shimon Darwish, president of the former association of the merchants, an association that, for unclear reasons, has been neutralized and replaced by another association headed by another merchant, Nino Peretz, who is very supportive of Berkowitz’s policy.
In short, the major issue is how to reach that perfect balance between a market and a nightlife center, while warding off real estate sharks, who wait for any vacant stall like for a ripe fruit. The fear is that the situation might be reversed, with the real estate sharks owning a majority of the shuk’s stalls and eateries, and then deciding to demolish them and build towers in their place. “That would be the end of the shuk,” asserted Darwish.
But Berkowitz and the new merchants association are more concerned, for the moment, by the fact that competitive initiatives have taken away many clients from the shuk. In order to encourage them to come back to Mahaneh Yehuda, a vast plan of change and attractions kicked off this week, during Hanukka.
Last week, this plan, promoted by Berkowitz, aiming to establish some regulation inside the shuk area, was approved. It includes attractions for children and families.
The main idea is to create a special compound for families and children, with street theater, jugglers, music and other attractions, as well as special menus for children, mostly in the area between Jaffa Road and Agrippas Street, with extra locations inside the roofed alleys in the center of the shuk, while the rest of the shuk remains in its authentic, market format.
The family area would be completely covered, air-conditioned, with benches and, of course, not accessible to cars. But there is a parking plan, including even a shuttle service (although the latter element is still being debated and is not planned to be operative by summer 2017, like the rest of the project).
The idea is to compete with the First Station compound, which recently has been offering weekly market days, which to the shuk merchants is tantamount to crossing a redline.
“If they want to have a Mahaneh Yehuda in every neighborhood, then what are we here for?” a merchant asked bitterly, as he closed his stall on Sunday evening.
Berkowitz is convinced that his plan will save the famous market. He has already secured a budget, and he has grand plans for the coming spring and summer.
Some merchants are in favor of this, hoping it will restore the shuk to its former glory. Others dislike it, maintaining that turning the market into an entertainment site will not save it from financial trouble.
Regardless, big changes are around the corner.