Turning the tables

Hashulchan is upscale but friendly, and the food is simple but indulgent.

By SHAWN RODGERS
Turning the tables (photo credit: Courtesy)
Turning the tables
(photo credit: Courtesy)
Chef Omer Miller’s Hashulchan, which opened over a year ago, embraces everything there is to love about Tel Aviv’s lively Rothschild Boulevard and has become one of the city’s hot spots.
Upon entering, one is immediately struck by the warm, welcoming atmosphere of the restaurant. There are two seating areas. One is inside near the open kitchen, and the other is on an enclosed porch. With its large glass windows, the restaurant is great for observing all the weird and wonderful activities taking place along the boulevard.
Hashulchan’s menu is a culinary melting pot, and the food on offer is simple yet luxurious and indulgent.
We started with the egg schnitzel (NIS 28) – the restaurant’s most famous dish – eggs coated in bread crumbs and pan fried as a schnitzel.
The egg was served with garam masala, shallots, green onion and lime vinaigrette dressing. I have a weakness for soft-boiled egg with liquid yolk; as such, this dish should have been the perfect match for me – and it was.
This was followed by a red tuna tartare (NIS 62). The mixture of fresh onions, tuna and a hint of lime-soy sauce got my taste buds dancing.
Alongside it, we also ripped away at the tasty house bread.
Next, was a beetroot carpaccio (NIS 28/42) with fresh oregano and goat’s cheese. This proved a refreshing mix of flavors and was delicious.
After a bit of a breather, a series of main dishes was served. A pan roasted whole fish was served with grilled vegetables, sage and white wine sauce (NIS 128). The seared fish was expertly cooked to a very pleasing texture – flaky, firm yet yielding.
Next up was the beef fillet (NIS 138). We were not disappointed. In fact, we were more than impressed.
The beef was the tastiest and most tender that I’ve eaten in recent memory. Along with the mashed potato and Turkish spinach underneath, the dish would have been enough for a light meal in itself.
But it was the dessert that deserves the main mention. We were advised to try the deliciously decadent The Table.
Even though we had eaten far too much already, we strove valiantly to finish this rich chocolate brownie creation, surrounded by chocolate mousse, whipped cream and sprinkled with dark chocolate pieces.
With the type and quality of food served at Hashulchan, the place could easily be one of those pretentious restaurants where nobody speaks above a whisper. But Hashulchan makes you feel comfortable, while still serving an upscale crowd. Topping off the meal with a shot of espresso, my dining companion and I agreed that we would be back because one visit was just not enough.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.
HashulchanNot kosher73 Rothschild Blvd., Tel Aviv Tel: (03) 525-7171