Apples in Metulla

The northern town is full of surprising history, including friendships that crossed the Lebanese border.

By MEITAL SHARABI
The boutique Beit Shalom hotel is run by the Hod family, an institution in Metulla. (photo credit: OSNAT GUETTA)
The boutique Beit Shalom hotel is run by the Hod family, an institution in Metulla.
(photo credit: OSNAT GUETTA)
There are a number of reasons people might want to visit Metulla these days, but what drew me there recently was the mild, cool weather and the orchards full of juicy apples. It was the perfect pastoral escape from the busy metropolis. Now that the cherry picking season is over – having attracted thousands of people to the Golan Heights and the Galilee – the apple season is officially upon us and will continue until after and Succot.
The most amazing apple orchard I encountered this year is owned and managed by the Hod family. The Hod clan is one of the most veteran families in the Metulla area. In addition to their apple orchards, they run a wonderful boutique hotel called Beit Shalom, where guests can participate in tours of the orchards, including tastings. Beit Shalom is a great place to spend time if you’re looking for solitude or a romantic getaway, since the hotel is for adults only (no children are allowed).
The courtyard of Beit Shalom was built 120 years ago on Rishonim Street, which is Metulla’s main road. Owners Haimke and Miriam Hod are more than happy to describe to guests how their family settled in Metulla many years ago. It’s easy to get caught up in their stories of resistance, survival, and dreams about peace with their neighbors. One particularly moving story Miriam told us was about her “adopted” sister in Lebanon and the special connection the two of them had, which only became stronger when they were forced apart due to the IDF’s withdrawal from Lebanon.
Miriam’s adopted sister and her family were in mortal danger, since her father was a soldier in the South Lebanese Army. They tried with all their might to get to the Israeli side of the border, but to no avail. Miriam couldn’t bear the thought of being separated from her friend, so she contacted government ministers and the media and begged them to help. Apparently these efforts had the intended effect: Miriam’s friend and family successfully crossed the border into Israel. For two years, they lived in the Hod family home with no resources or income. Miriam recalls this period wistfully, and you can see in her eyes that she still yearns for those times, which were difficult, but also meaningful.
The incredible stories about the personages and history of the place are not the only interesting aspects of the hotel. The old house, which belonged to Haimke’s grandmother, is now home to a successful restaurant run by chef Assaf Ottolenghi, which serves tasty, authentic food. Upstairs, there are suites and guest rooms that are superbly decorated. To the left of the house lies a spacious garden leading to a new wing that houses additional guest rooms and Miriam’s art gallery. Miriam specializes in jewelry, light fixtures and artistic embroidery using precious stones.
If you walk behind the wooden house, you can take in the beautiful view and the cherry trees, from which guests can pick and eat cherries to their hearts’ content (although this is not currently cherry season). Adjacent to the trees, you’ll notice a lovely little vegetable garden, from which the restaurant staff picks vegetables daily to use in their tasty dishes. So it should be no surprise if the stuffed grape leaves you just ate were prepared from the vegetables you just passed by.
In addition to the guests who stay in the hotel, many visitors come to Beit Shalom especially to participate in Haimke’s tours. The tours, which leave every Saturday morning and cost NIS 85 (but are free for hotel guests), include a hearty breakfast (that includes apples, of course) served in the tranquil garden. Tour participants form a caravan after Haimke’s truck in their own cars and then follow him into the fields, where they can hear his fantastic stories of Metulla’s history.
During the tour, he takes visitors on a walking tour past the houses and gardens of Metulla. Then everyone gets back in their cars and drives to the breathtaking Mitzpe Shai viewpoint, which offers an amazing view of Mount Hermon. Here, Haimke regales guests with stories about farming life and how local residents used to get along with all their neighbors, including those across the border in Lebanon. Lastly participants are invited to pick fruit from a variety of apple trees.
When guests have picked their share of apples, they can enjoy the scenic ride home.
Translated by Hannah Hochner.
Location: Metulla.
Type of outing: Easy, appropriate for the whole family.
Length: A full day. Optional to sleep overnight.
Season: Summer-fall.
Directions: Drive north on Route 90 toward Kiryat Shmona. Continue until Metulla and enter the city. Continue on Rishonim Street until you see Beit Shalom on your right.
Hotel rates: In the new wing: NIS 550-NIS 800 per night.
In the old wing: NIS 1,000-NIS 1,200 per night. Spa treatments can be reserved ahead of time. Cost of 50-minute massage: NIS 200. Tours can be booked ahead at (04) 694-0767.