Top of the hill

Usfiya’s Druse residents are so hospitable it’s even fun to get lost in the Mount Carmel village.

By MEITAL SHARABI

DECEMBER 1, 2016 14:03

Making typical Druse pita in Usfiya (photo credit: MEITAL SHARABI) — Making typical Druse pita in Usfiya

(photo credit: MEITAL SHARABI)

Many people enjoy the drive just as much as they enjoy the actual spot where they’re vacationing. And this is certainly true when visiting Usfiya, a Druse village located on top of Mount Carmel. From the winding road that leads up the mountain you’ll see scenery that is a picture-perfect postcard, and you’ll probably want to stop the car to photograph the pastoral surroundings that are green year-round. There actually are lots of fun trails in the area, but, alas, I will have to cover them another time.

When you finally reach the village at the top of the hill, you will be enchanted by the narrow alleyways and picturesque homes. The most wonderful thing about Usfiya is undoubtedly the wonderful hospitality offered by its residents. Throughout the years, the Druse village has attracted a great number of tourists. However, the difficult security situation in the country has led to a decrease in the number of Israelis visiting Usfiya and other Druse communities.

This is such a shame, since this is definitely the best way for Jewish Israelis, and other tourists, to learn about Druse culture and customs, and to meet men and women who feel a deep connection to Israel.

Usfiya has been around since the Ottoman period, and according to archeological finds, it’s clear that it was a bustling village. Underneath the streets that weave through the modern-day village are ruins from 400 years ago. One such finding is a 10m. x 10m. mosaic from an ancient synagogue, which was the center of a village known as Hosifa. The mosaic, which depicts two menorahs and the zodiac, is on display in a museum, but a few parts of it have been left on site in Usfiya.

Clearly, many changes have taken place in this community since it was established in the 17th century, and we can see that the population of Usfiya is pretty homogeneous: 80% are Druse, and the rest is a mix of Christian Arabs with a sprinkling of Jewish families. As a result, there is an overwhelming Druse feeling in the village, which makes visiting there very exciting. Because Usfiya is geographically small, it’s pretty easy to get around by foot, and people living there are very friendly, which actually makes it really fun to get lost.

If you prefer joining a guided tour, there are plenty of guides available and you’ll be sure not to miss out on a visit to the old quarter, and even be offered a homemade meal where you can enjoy local delicacies. One such tour is offered by Amim V’ta’amim (Nations and Flavors), which specializes in culinary tours in the region.

The guided tour takes you through the alleys of the village and the old quarter, where you’ll see an ancient olive press that’s located inside a cave, an abandoned church from the Byzantine era and the local prayer house.

If you’d like, you can end your day at a madafa, referring to the rooms where Druse families host their guests. There you will be treated to a feast of homemade Druse delicacies and then spend the night in cozy quarters that often are located in a family’s courtyard. But before you lay your head down to sleep, make sure you take a moment to look out at the incredible view of the Zevulun Valley, which you can see from most homes in the village. Meals are served on huge trays and include dishes such as tabbouleh, salads, pickles, mansaf (rice, noodles, meat and almonds), eggplant, stuffed vegetables, grape leaves, kebab in tehina and hummus.

During your stay in Usfiya, there are lots of interesting sites to see. The main street is a great starting point because you can get to almost everywhere else in the village from that point. The first section of the village you should visit is the old quarter, which is best covered by foot since the roads are narrow and this way you can stop and linger whenever you feel like it.

The first site worthwhile stopping at is the hilweh, the Druse prayer house. Actually, the only part you’ll be able to see is the grand entrance because only traditional Druse believers are allowed inside. Most Druse are loyal to their tradition, but those who define themselves as secular also do not go inside. Just like in Orthodox synagogues, hilwehs have separate men’s and women’s sections, although women are allowed to lead the service.

Just to the right of the prayer house, and near the window of a private house next door, you’ll find remains from the ancient mosaic that was discovered in the village. Although it hasn’t been preserved in ideal conditions, it’s still pretty exciting to see a mosaic that used to be part of an ancient synagogue.

Just a few meters from the hilweh, you’ll find a real treasure: the Byzantine burial cave where an ancient olive press used to be. You can actually walk inside the cool cave to see the reproduction of the olive press.

Although it might seem a bit morbid, if you’re interested in visiting the village’s well-maintained military cemetery, you’ll see the graves of Druse soldiers who died in pre-state times. And right next to the military cemetery you’ll find the civilian cemetery. The Druse believe in reincarnation, and so they don’t invest much in headstones for their loved ones who’ve passed on. Druse usually dig large holes in the burial plot and then place the bodies in niches within this large hole.

If you are like me, you’ll most definitely have fallen in love with Druse culture by this point and want to stay overnight in the area. If you’re interested in staying in a bedand- breakfast, your best bet is to look outside the village.

If, though, like me, you’re interested in a more authentic experience, there are a number of guest houses located on Usfiya’s main drag.

One of the nicest is Orhan El Manzul, a guest house in operation for many generations now. El Manzul served as an inn back in the days when travelers were treated to incredible Druse hospitality – food and drink to fill their bodies and souls so that they’d have energy to continue their journey the next morning. Orhan El Manzul offers a number of rooms that form a square around a courtyard where guests can sit and have a meal together or enjoy a drink. On the roof of the building, there is a swimming pool and grills for the enjoyment of the guests. El Manzul is a great place for people looking for a place to stay with friends or extended family, since the common space is perfect for gathering and yet still private.

The last place in Usfiya I want to tell you about is a very special spring. The easiest way to reach the spring and its pool is by asking anyone how to get to the Amin Kiyuf Mall and from there have someone point out the way. The source of the pool is the local El Balad Spring. Unfortunately, visitors are not always so careful to clean up after themselves and so you might find garbage left on the ground by others.

And so this won’t happen to people who come after you, always make sure you clean up after yourselves wherever your travels take you.

Translated by Hannah Hochner.