BahausTurn into Rehov Shlomo Yehuda Rappaport to see a beautifully restored Bauhaus structure that is now a retirement home. Then head left into Ranik and immediately right onto a short path called Yoset. Every Bauhaus house had a way of bringing in light. Unlike European houses, that featured large windows, the hot sunny climate of Tel Aviv called for small windows and a different approach. Take a look at some of the results, including long, skinny stairwell windows and portholes. Find, as well, houses with running shutters: They look like round curtains, were made of asbestos and constituted a health hazard (they have since been banned). Turn left onto Rehov Ben-Yehuda. I'm not sure why the next byway is named for Ferdinand LaSalle, a German Jewish political agitator who lived mainly in Berlin during the mid-19th century. He was estranged from his Jewish roots, and at one point wrote that he hated the Jews in general. Perhaps the honor he received relates to his establishment of the first socialist organization in Europe, the General German Workers' Association in 1863. His life was cut short the next year, when he took part in a duel over a woman. Shot by his opponent, he was mortally wounded.

The A.D. Gordon Schoo

The A.D. Gordon School, a socialist workers' enterprise founded in 1932, was located on LaSalle. Here the children of Tel Aviv's blue-collar workers combined education with work. Two days a week they labored in the garden, and later ate food they had produced themselves. In this school the boys and girls studied both embroidery and carpentry - together! - and once a week one of the classes ran the school instead of studying. Today the building serves as a cultural center and the front lawn is covered with sculptures that seem to be walking to and fro. Move on to Rehov Gordon, where the houses are pretty old and run down but still quite interesting: Look for the eclectic boat-shaped structure on the corner of Gordon and Hayarkon. Turn left on Hayarkon. Soon you will reach the Atarim Promenade, an interesting experiment with restaurants and nightclubs that was extraordinarily unsuccessful and is now mostly deserted. Go left on Sderot Ben-Gurion, stopping in at the modest home in which prime minister David Ben-Gurion lived when in Tel Aviv. Everything has remained exactly as it was: Breakfast has even been laid out for his pleasure. Backtrack to No. 14, and turn into Arnon. Famous poet Lea Goldberg lived at No. 15 when she was writing the children's novel My Friends from Arnon Street. Number 16 is a stunning example of restored Bauhaus architecture. Enter another charming little park, named for Eran Vickselbaum, killed on a reconnaissance mission in Lebanon in 1992. A letter that Eran wrote to his mom on Mother's Day is inscribed on a stone slab. Leave Vickselbaum park to the right, and you will end up near the Mediterranean. From here, it is an easy walk back to the Yarkon River and Rehov Ussishkin where you started out. Many thanks to tour guide Yona Wiseman, who took us on this very special outing. Yona can be reached at 052-326-7277 or by e-mail at yonawise@013.net.il; her Web site is www.yonawise.net.

Tel Aviv - Beyond Bauhaus

Thought you knew Tel Aviv's streets and architecture like the back of your hand? Think again.