Dining: Seaside surf and turf

Yam 7 makes the best of an idyllic location.

Yam 7 (photo credit: PR)
Yam 7
(photo credit: PR)
Tucked under the iconic Dan Accadia Hotel, the newly redesigned Yam 7 restaurant features both al fresco seating and bay windows looking out onto a wide expanse of beach and an endless sea. The restaurant’s name derives from a nautical scale classifying the height of waves, with “7” representing optimal conditions for surfing. The restaurant’s location, meanwhile, is optimal for viewing sunsets while dining.
The culinary philosophy of Yam 7 is to serve straightforward, unpretentious food, using prime ingredients. The bilingual menu is augmented by daily specials, which were conveyed to us verbally by our friendly waitress, who was fluent in English.
Yam 7 has a well-stocked bar, whose staff has come up with several creative house cocktails (NIS 45).
We tried the spicy mango – fresh mango juice, vodka, and chili – a well-balanced drink that imparted just the right amount of heat to cut and accent the sweetness of the fruit. Chunks of fresh mango added some body, and the garnish of a slice of red chili pepper a dash of color.
We were intrigued by the mojito with mixed berries, and the rum-based drink did indeed turn out to be refreshing and bracing. It’s just that eliminating mint and replacing it with a sprig of rosemary, in addition to introducing fruit, changes the nature of the classic to the point where a name change would be in order as well.
The daily special we chose in the starter category was sea bass ceviche (NIS 62): sea bass with lychee, beets, greens, chili and a touch of yogurt. The inclusion of tropical fruit made it unlike any ceviche I had ever tasted, but there is no arguing with innovation when it works. The diverse ingredients made for a wonderful interplay of flavors, which lingered in the mouth along with the sensation of pleasant heat.
Next was a root salad with blue cheese (NIS 46): julienned carrots, beets and kohlrabi, with thin slices of radish, leaves of endive and arugula, and sprinklings of sunflower and pumpkin seeds, tossed lightly in a white vinegar dressing.
Dollops of creamy blue cheese were layered among the crispy vegetables in a way that made the cheese the star of the dish while not overpowering the healthful ingredients. Fans of blue cheese will definitely like this salad, which was large enough to be a main course.
The main courses fell in the categories of “from the sea” or “from the land.” The catch of the day (NIS 128) that evening was grouper. An entire fish was beautifully presented and perfectly grilled, the delicate white meat so moist it melted in the mouth.
The fish came with a small green salad and a choice of sides, from which we selected the roasted cauliflower. The tops of the al dente florets were golden brown and drizzled with seasoned tehina.
Our steak was also grilled exactly as we ordered: medium-rare entrecôte (NIS 145) that was tender, juicy and flavorful. It was served with rich, fluffy mashed potatoes, baby asparagus and roasted garlic.
Desserts at Yam 7 include most of the standards, like chocolate fudge and cheesecake, but our waitress recommended the apple pie (NIS 42), which turned out to be apple crumble.
The shards of buttery and crunchy crumble and sweet fruit were topped with a large scoop of Ben and Jerry’s vanilla ice cream.
She also recommended the homemade knaffeh (NIS 42), which takes 15 minutes to prepare after it is ordered. It was well worth the wait. An oval of tangy cheese covered with strands of toasted kadaif noodles came with a small carafe of simple syrup, and it was delicious fun to gently pour the syrup over the pastry to get the slightly sour cheese to just the right balance of sweetness for my palate.
The fish and meat courses, as well as the two desserts, were each on their own generous enough for two to share. For those who are not that hungry but would enjoy a light meal by the sea, Yam 7 has a tapas menu.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.
Yam 7
Not kosher
122 Ramat Yam St., Herzliya Pituah
Tel: (09) 956-6950