Meatos takes fish to a new level

Koby Abed brings kosher Greek cuisine to the Israeli public

By DEBBIE KANDEL
Meatos Fish Market (photo credit: PR)
Meatos Fish Market
(photo credit: PR)
For the past 10 years, Meatos has been considered one of the best kosher steak restaurants in Tel Aviv, popular with locals and tourists alike. So it is no surprise that chef and owner Koby Abed has transferred the same recipe for success to his new fish restaurant, Fish Market by Meatos.
The Greek style restaurant is the brainchild of Abed himself, from the beautiful interior design and the fresh and funky décor to the open plan kitchen and, of course, the menu.
Abed was determined to bring Greek cuisine to the Israeli audience, and the concept lends itself well to a kosher dairy restaurant.
The menu is wide-ranging, so we were delighted to sample a variety of dishes based on our waitress’s recommendations. We started with two delicious salads. My dining companion and I both favored the unique flavor and texture of the herb salad with nuts and cranberries, a mix of finely chopped herbs with a tart dressing (NIS 42). We also enjoyed the iceberg lettuce and drunken pear salad, which was scattered with roasted beets, Bavaria blu cheese and roasted pecans that had a nice sweet accent (NIS 42).
The stand-out starter, though, was the filo pastry filled with feta cheese, Caciocavallo and spinach (NIS 49).
Served with fresh egg and tehina, it was a Greek twist on a traditional bureka dish, and the combination of flavors was perfect. Although the portion was generous, we devoured it and could happily have had more. We also thoroughly enjoyed the haloumi steak (NIS 49). Again, there was a Middle Eastern twist on the traditional Greek version, as the dish came with labaneh, fresh hyssop and superb olives.
Moving on to the main course, we were spoiled for choice with all the interesting fish dishes. First we sampled the fisherman pan (NIS 119), a selection of deep-fried fish, which was perfectly cooked in a very light yet still crisp batter with a slight spice.
It was beautifully presented with a simple wedge of lemon, but we would have liked at least one sauce to dip the fish in.
Our favorite main course was the oven-baked sea bass with a spice crust and grilled vegetables (NIS 119). The crust was flavorful without being overpowering, and the portion was very generous. We also tried the sea bream fillet in thyme butter served on truffle puree (NIS 109). Again, the fish was beautifully cooked with a crispy outer layer, and the puree was rich and creamy with a subtle truffle taste.
Last, we sampled a vegetarian dish – chestnut and mushroom gnocchi in truffle cream (NIS 69). The gnocchi were light and fluffy. The dish was very good but not as special as the wonderful fish dishes.
We accompanied our meal with homemade almond arak (NIS 32). I also tried a tangy apple lychee crush (NIS 42), which was a classic apple martini with a twist of lychee.
For dessert, our favorite was the apple crumble (NIS 38). It was not overly sweet or heavy and had a delicious crumble topping. We also tried the Belgian chocolate fudge (NIS 38) and the tiramisu (NIS 39).
The service was very attentive, and we really enjoyed our meal. Although it has been open for only a few months, Fish Market by Meatos is already busy, so reservations are recommended. You can also enjoy many dishes from the main menu on the business lunch (NIS 89) from noon to 5 p.m.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.
Fish Market by Meatos Kosher 33 Shaul Hamelech St., Tel Aviv Tel: 053-937-6094 www.fishmarket-tlv.co.il/ Sunday to Thursday, noon to 1 a.m. Saturday, 9 p.m. to 1 a.m.