I've been noticing lately that whenever I get in my car and start driving south towards the Negev, I start complaining. Why are the roads in such disrepair? When are they going to add another lane to the Arava highway? And why is it that all the trucks in the country decide to set out on the road at exactly the same time as I do? But after I manage to relax a little and take the time to look at the majestic mountains out my window, I recall that this road is not just another highway, but was once the center of the Incense Road, one of the main trade routes between Asia and Europe, over which spices, precious stones and textiles were transported and traded. One site that shows how prosperous the Nabateans were is the ancient city of Mamshit. Mamshit was one of the most popular way stations for merchants crossing the desert from Petra on their way to Europe. The massive city (about 4 hectares, or 10 acres) was located between two mountain ridges, and the name Mamshit is a Hebraization of the original name of Memphis. The city was built in proximity to Mamshit River, which supplies a relatively large amount of water to this desert area. During the time of the Roman Empire, two dams were built to regulate water supply and ruins of both can still be seen at the site. In the Byzantine period, Mamshit went through a huge change when most of its inhabitants converted to Christianity and two impressive churches were built. The age of prosperity finally came to an end when the Muslims overtook the area. The tour of Mamshit begins at the front gate of the city, which has been extremely well preserved. Back then, two watch towers stood on either side of the gate. Once you enter the gate, turn right onto the marked path and walk toward the palace, which is a large structure that comprises living quarters, a large reception hall and servants' quarters. Next, continue down the path until you see the ancient dams that channeled the water toward the wells which stored drinking water for the residents. From there, continue to the impressive St. Nilus Church, whose floor is adorned with mosaics of birds, fruit and Greek inscriptions. Nearby you will also find the second church known as the Church of the Saints and Martyrs, since bones and remains from ancient rituals were found inside. When you're done visiting the churches, continue along the path until you reach the Fresco House, a beautiful structure in which impressive murals and huge horse stables were discovered. Mamshit inhabitants were incredibly adept at conserving water, as attested to by the large pool found on-site. The pool holds 1,500 cubic meters of water, and during excavations archeologists discovered an inscription which dates it to the Roman period. The city was also well-known for being a center for raising horses. Locals cultivated and bred Arabian horses and were recognized throughout the Roman Empire for their expertise. Extensive space within Mamshit was turned into stalls for the horses, since they were used for both commerce and agriculture. They had up to 10 horses at any given time – a huge number for that period. Next, continue on to the well-preserved ancient bathhouse. It is divided into three parts: the frigidarium – a cold-water room, a tepidarium – a lukewarm-water room, and a caldarium – a hot-water room that was heated by a special underground heating system (wood was burned to heat the water). Above the bathhouse, you will find the Citadel, which was built on the highest point in the city and was used to protect city residents. Ruins of the Citadel can still be seen at the site, although the British used many of its stones to build a police station here in the 1920s. This is the end of the visit. To reach your car, follow the path back to the parking area. ■ Translated by Hannah Hochner.
