Flavorful Mediterranean flatbreads

This herb and sesame flatbread makes a tasty breakfast with olives, labaneh and Israeli salad.

By FAYE LEVY
flatbread 88 (photo credit: Courtesy)
flatbread 88
(photo credit: Courtesy)
When I was growing up in Washington, DC, breakfast breads to me were cinnamon rolls or banana bread, which is nearly as sweet as cake. When I moved to the Mideast, I was introduced to another flavorful option - flatbreads baked with herb or cheese toppings. One of my favorites has a savory, almost pungent, topping of Mediterranean herbs and olive oil. In the Middle East it's often called manakeesh or mana'eesh; English speakers call it za'atar bread. Avo's Bakery in Los Angeles labels its version oregano and thyme focaccia. Indeed, these Middle Eastern breads do resemble those Italian flatbreads, which also come brushed with olive oil and often sprinkled with rosemary or other herbs. Rivka Levy-Mellul, author of Moroccan Cooking (in Hebrew) wrote that seasoned breads were a popular accompaniment for a cup of tea for children in Morocco coming home from school. She adds za'atar or ground marjoram directly to the dough instead of spreading it on top. For an onion flatbread, she mixes fried onions into the dough and then scatters a little more fried onion over each bread before baking it. One of the best examples of flavorful flatbreads I've had came from Abulafia Bakery in Jaffa, where the za'atar bread had many little depressions in its top to hold plenty of za'atar and flavorful olive oil. Christiane Dabdoub Nasser, author of Classic Palestinian Cookery, varies her za'atar bread with fried onions, garlic or cardamom, and recommends serving it with salads or as a healthy snack for children to take to school. Avo's Bakery also makes other flavorful flatbreads - a spicy spinach bread, a tomato and onion bread and a Mediterranean cheese bread topped with a feta cheese blend and parsley. If these sound a bit like pizza, they do bear a certain resemblance to the Italian favorite. It's a matter of degree - pizzas tend to be more substantial, with a thicker layer of topping, and often are the focus of a meal. These Middle Eastern breads are lighter and are served as accompaniments, snacks or for light meals. ZA'ATAR BREAD This herb and sesame flatbread makes a tasty breakfast with olives, labaneh (thick strained yogurt) and Israeli salad. This dough is a snap to prepare in the food processor, but it doesn't take long to make by hand either. Another popular way to make za'atar bread when time is very short is to start with purchased pita or other flatbread. Simply mix za'atar with olive oil to taste, spread it on the bread, and toast it lightly for a tempting treat. If you have za'atar mix, use 3 tablespoons of it instead of the sesame seeds, thyme and salt below; add the pepper if you'd like a more peppery topping. Flatbread dough (see recipe below) 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds 2 tsp. dried thyme 1⁄2 tsp. salt 1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground pepper, or to taste 2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1⁄2 tsp lemon juice (optional) Make dough and let it rise. To make the topping, mix sesame seeds with thyme, salt and pepper. Combine the mixture with olive oil and lemon juice and mix well. Preheat oven to 225º. Lightly oil 2 baking sheets. Divide dough in 4 pieces. Roll each to an 18 cm. to 20-cm. round slightly over 3 mm. thick. Put on baking sheets. Spread 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon topping evenly over each flatbread, leaving a 1-cm. border. Let breads rise for about 15 minutes. Bake breads for 8 minutes or until dough is golden brown and firm. Serve warm. If not serving breads immediately, cool them on racks. Wrap them tightly in plastic wrap or plastic bags. Makes 4 servings. FLATBREAD DOUGH If you like, you can make this with half whole-wheat flour. In this case the dough will probably need more water - add it gradually, by tablespoons. 7 gr. dry yeast 3⁄4 cup lukewarm water (40º to 46º) 2 cups bread flour or all purpose flour, preferably unbleached 1 tsp. salt 1⁄2 Tbsp. olive oil TO MAKE DOUGH IN FOOD PROCESSOR: Sprinkle yeast over 1⁄4 cup lukewarm water in a cup and let stand for 10 minutes. Stir until smooth. In food processor, process flour and salt briefly to mix them. Add remaining 1⁄2 cup water and oil to yeast mixture. With blades of processor turning, gradually pour yeast-liquid mixture into flour mixture. Process until mixture becomes a dough. If dough is too dry to come together, add 1 tablespoon water and process again. Process about 1 minute to knead dough. TO MAKE DOUGH BY HAND: Sift flour into a bowl and make a well in center. Sprinkle yeast into well. Pour 1⁄4 cup water over yeast and let stand for 10 minutes. Stir until smooth. Add remaining 1⁄2 cup water, oil and salt and mix with ingredients in middle of well. Stir in flour and mix well to obtain a fairly soft dough. If dough is dry, add 1 tablespoon water. Knead dough, slapping it on work surface, until it is smooth and elastic. If it is very sticky, flour it occasionally while kneading. Lightly oil a medium bowl. Add dough; turn to coat entire surface. Cover with plastic wrap or a lightly dampened towel. Let dough rise in a warm draft-free area about 1 hour or until doubled in volume. Note: The dough makes enough for 4 individual round flatbreads or 1 larger one. Faye Levy is the author of Feast from the Mideast.