Simple & sweet

The fruit finding its way to our mouths in these hot September days barely needs any tweaking, but a topping here or there doesn't hurt

By FAYE LEVY
When I go to a quality market these days, the lavish array of fruit makes me think of the Garden of Eden. Unlike Adam and Eve, I don't even have to pick the fruit myself; but on the other hand, the beauty of their heavenly fruit was not marred by pesky price tags. As if the wonderful peaches, nectarines, watermelons and other melons we've been enjoying since the beginning of summer aren't enough, now there are plums in many varieties and colors, luscious figs and juicy mangoes. Even new-crop pears, grapes and pomegranates are beginning to arrive, and I'm checking the markets eagerly for the first sign of the yellow, fresh Barhi dates that I am crazy about. When I hear friends complaining about the heat, I counter, "But it makes the fruit sweet!" Still, given the warm weather, I generally opt for simple preparations that don't heat up the kitchen. When the fruit is so superb, each is like a mini-dessert on its own. With so many varieties enticing us to eat them at the same time, the obvious choice is a fruit salad emphasizing the beautiful colors and flavors. Instead of dicing all the fruit in small cubes, I often prepare it the French way - in slices or wedges to show the fruit's form. If the fruit is not at its best, I punch it up with a sprinkling of sugar and a squeeze of lemon or orange juice or a splash of Grand Marnier or other fruit liqueur. A salad of fruit that's juicy and sweet needs very little to enhance it, but I find it delicious topped with a few spoonfuls of vanilla yogurt. To make it even more festive, I garnish it with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a sorbet matching one of the fruits in the salad, and then sprinkle it with toasted almonds. Another good partner for fruit salad, popular in Rome, is a dollop of ricotta cheese spooned into the middle of the plate and drizzled with honey. I like to use labaneh or French creme fraiche the same way. For a fruit finale to a meal that feels more like a real dessert but is still easy to make, I opt for a fruit crisp. Composed basically of sliced fruit baked with a crumbly topping, it has the appeal of a pie but is much simpler to prepare. Susan Purdy, author of As Easy As Pie, calls fruit crisps "friendly, deep-dish pies with crisp crumb toppings" and notes that they can be made with any fresh fruit, alone or in combination. Purdy likes crisps warm, with a little unwhipped slightly sweetened heavy cream poured over the top. For an even faster crisp, I prepare a no-bake version. I simply saute sliced plums, nectarines or other fruit lightly in butter and finish it with a sprinkling of sugar. I serve the tender, still-warm fruit covered with crunchy granola, preferably one with plenty of nuts. Served warm topped with ice cream, it's delicious, festive and oh, so easy. GARDEN OF EDEN FANTASY FRUIT SALAD If you like, add seedless grapes, dates or banana slices to the fruit mix. Instead of the ricotta cheese, you can top each serving with vanilla yogurt or vanilla ice cream. Makes 4 servings 4 4 ripe plums, different colors 4 1 ripe mango, peeled 4 1 or 2 cups fresh figs, halved or quartered 4 2 or 3 ripe nectarines or peaches 4 1⁄2 to 1 cup ricotta cheese, creme fraiche or labaneh 4 1 to 2 Tbsp. honey (optional) 4 2 to 3 Tbsp. sliced almonds, lightly toasted Cut fruit in wedges and arrange in four shallow dessert bowls or on plates. Spoon ricotta cheese into the center of each portion, drizzle the cheese with honey and sprinkle with almonds. Serve cold. EASIER-THAN-PIE PLUM CRISP This tasty dessert of plums with a walnut topping is inspired by Susan Purdy's apple crisp recipe. If you like, substitute peaches for half the plums, or make a peach crisp following the variation. Purdy notes that the fruit can be covered with topping and baked in advance, but the crisp is best when cooked no more than one or two hours before serving. If baked earlier, you can rewarm it in the oven before serving to restore the crispness to the topping, which softens on standing. Serve it with lightly sweetened cream, whipped or unwhipped, or top each portion with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Sour cream or vanilla yogurt are also good partners for the fruity dessert. Makes 6 servings 4 3 to 4 Tbsp. brown sugar, or to taste (to mix with the plums) 4 3⁄4 to 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 4 4 cups sliced plums 4 1 Tbsp. lemon juice or orange juice (optional) 4 1⁄2 cup white sugar, or 1⁄4 cup brown and 1⁄4 cup white sugar (for the topping) 4 1⁄2 cup flour 4 1⁄4 cup rolled oats (dry oatmeal) 4 2 Tbsp. wheat germ (optional) 4 1⁄2 to 2⁄3 cup walnuts, chopped fine 4 55 to 60 grams butter, room temperature, cut in cubes Preheat oven to 175ºC. Butter a 23- or 25-cm. pie dish or a six-cup baking dish. Mix 3 to 4 tablespoons brown sugar and 1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon in a small cup. In a medium bowl, mix plums with cinnamon mixture. Spoon into buttered baking dish and sprinkle with lemon juice. To make topping: Combine 1⁄2 cup sugar, flour, remaining 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon, oats, wheat germ, walnuts and butter cubes in a bowl. Crumble the ingredients together with your fingertips until they form small bits of dough. Spread topping mixture over prepared fruit and pat it with the palm of your hand so it sticks to the fruit. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes or until fruit is fork-tender and topping is browned and crisp. Serve warm. Peach or Pear Crisp: Substitute sliced peaches, nectarines or pears for the plums, and chopped pecans or almonds for the walnuts Faye Levy is the author of Healthy Cooking for the Jewish Home.