Some sort of food 370.
(photo credit: Dan Peretz)
Chef Omer Miller has had a wonderful run. His restaurant, The Dining Room (Heder
Ochel) near the Opera House in Tel Aviv is an ongoing success, he has a TV show
with cooking celebrity Michal Ansky, his Israeli cookbook is a bestseller, and
it looked as if he could rest for a while – but Miller wanted a new adventure.
He wanted to feed his clients in his kitchen or, as his longtime business
partner Steven Lobel says, “Omer wanted people to come to his kitchen, so we
built a restaurant around the kitchen”. And the new restaurant Shulchan
(Table) does indeed feel informal, bright, modern, cheerful and
We went there about a month after the opening, but by the look
of things the place is already ticking like clockwork. The service is friendly
and very professional, the food is divine, and the atmosphere is
There are two seating areas. One is inside near the open kitchen,
and the other is on an enclosed porch that overlooks lively Rothschild
Boulevard. The large glass windows keep diners feeling like a part of the
boulevard happenings, which is a lot of fun.
But the designed interiors
and friendly service are only the hors d’oeuvres. It is the food that is the
main attraction. And as we are familiar with the chef’s creations at his other
restaurant, we had great expectations. And we were not disappointed.
menu is not great. Miller’s forte is using fresh local produce and cooking in an
Israeli style – or doing his own interpretations of traditional dishes, as well
as just being inspired by the ingredients. Accordingly, the menu changes
with the season and with the availability of ingredients.
I love tasting
starters, so we ordered filo pastry cigars stuffed with sea fish, pistachio and
mint, with yogurt sauce on the side. It was perfect, original and a great way to
start a dinner (NIS 32). My companion wanted the lamb tartare, served with root
vegetables, basil and shallots (NIS 42), which was good as well. The
restaurant’s special starter, called egg schnitzel, is really a poached egg
coated with bread crumbs and fried, served on a salad with Thai sauce. It is an
amazing dish. The egg yolk is soft, and once the knife cuts through the golden
richness, it mixes in with the salad and is simply scrumptious. No wonder it has
already become one of the most popular dishes (NIS 28).
For mains, we
both wanted fish. I took the corvina fillet on a bed of steamed broccoli and
fresh snow peas. This kind of dish is perfect for those trying to keep the scale
going down rather than up. And it was excellent. The fish was seared but not
dry, and the vegetables were brimming with freshness (NIS 108).
the table, my partner enjoyed a dish of mascarpone ravioli and grouper, served
with celery puree, hazelnuts and thyme (NIS 72). It was as good as it
The flavors were so good, that we decided to savor them and skip
dessert and go for a stroll on the boulevard. A perfect ending to a great
With such a prime location, great service and, above all,
Miller’s innovative and sumptuous creations, we believe this corner – which was
the location of the legendary Pastis restaurant – will be Tel Aviv’s newest hot
spot.The writer was a guest of the restaurant.Shulchan Not
kosher 73 Rothschild Blvd.. Tel Aviv (03) 525-7171