A breed apart

Golan ranchers are struggling to preserve a tradition against market forces, and an Israeli diet that doesn’t pay much attention to meat.

By
October 30, 2014 15:16
Horses

A trio of horses drink water at Kibbutz Merom Golan.. (photo credit: SETH J. FRANTZMAN)

There’s lots o’ songs the puncher sang in roundin’ up his herds; The music wasn’t very grand, an’ neither was the words.
No op’ry air he chanted, when at night he circled ’round A bunch of restless longhorns that was throwed on their bed-ground; But any song the cowboy on his lonely beat would bawl, Wa’n’t half as sweet as when the cook would start the grub-pile call.

– “The Grub Pile Call,” E. A. Brininstool, from Trail Dust of a Maverick, 1914

There are a lot of legends about cowboy cooking, so many that they spawned a whole lexicon of terms in English: cowboy coffee, chuckwagon cooking, cowboy beans and cowboy breakfast. We are about to sample one, Israeli-style.

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