Brown offers a wide array of modern Mediterranean cuisine.
By SHAWN RODGERSBrown restaurant(photo credit: PR)
Located in the heart of North Tel Aviv in the G Tzameret boutique mall, Brown is an intimate place, and its unadorned charm makes you feel right at home. I love the fact that you can go there at any time of the day for a meal, be it brunch, lunch or dinner.Patrons are greeted by a welcoming ambience, modern decor and a spacious dining room.A feeling of privacy and seclusion is created, as the tables are spaced well apart. The non-invasive and helpful staff help create a relaxed, yet well-run establishment.But Brown’s strength is what comes on your plate. Chef Alon Lipinski’s menu offers contemporary Mediterranean cuisine, with creative dishes made with fresh ingredients and a generous personal touch.Soon after we were seated, our waitress arrived with an appetizer of fresh bread and two excellent spreads: sun-dried tomato tapenade and a lemony butter.Each spread tasted wonderful, and we would have happily kept on eating them had the first courses not arrived.We began our meal with the Brown salad (NIS 58). It was a mix of fresh greens complemented with ample amounts of beets, mozzarella cheese, avocado, artichokes and red onion. It was beautifully smooth and well balanced, served with a light olive oil and lemon dressing.We then shared the red tuna carpaccio (NIS 58). Accompanied by Roman artichokes, scallions and roasted tomatoes, the tuna was marvelously tender and hardly required chewing. The flavors were great as well.Without question, our favorite starter was the sautéed wild mushrooms served in a cream of white root vegetables, Parmesan cheese and walnuts (NIS 54).Every element was perfectly in balance and wonderfully seasoned. The mushrooms were woodsy and earthy. It melted in our mouths, and we actually had keep ourselves from ordering more.The portions were huge. I was full by this point, but we still had our main courses to go. We were presented with the 300gr. sirloin steak, which was one of the specials that day. The meat was extremely tender but perfect in the sense that it didn’t just fall apart in your mouth and you had to chew a bit. The temperature was also just right. My mediumrare steak was seared on the outside and slightly red on the inside. I did wish it was seasoned a bit more, though. It came with mixed vegetables that included broccoli and sweet potato.This dish was followed by chicken schnitzel marinated in honey and mustard (NIS 74). The schnitzel was perfectly cooked with just the right amount of breading and not greasy at all. The large portion came with creamy mashed potatoes and a salad.We then tried the pumpkin risotto (NIS 66) with spinach, peas, basil and Parmesan, which was so delicious that I’m developing a huge craving just thinking about it. The pumpkin and spinach were extremely fresh, and the risotto had just the right amount of richness.For dessert, we chose Brown’s homemade ice cream, which includes such weird and wonderful flavors as Earl Grey tea, chai, sugar-free coffee, coconut and peanut butter. Ice cream doesn’t really get much better than that. We also tried the deliciously decadent dark chocolate mousse tart.All in all, the service was excellent, and we had a great leisurely dinner. I highly recommend this place and look forward to going back.The writer was a guest of the restaurant.BrownNot kosher10 Nissim Aloni St., Tel Aviv(03) 544-4024
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