A successful makeover

The new Adora Bistro is funky, eclectic and modern

DECEMBER 10, 2015 11:31

Adora Bistro (photo credit: PR) — Adora Bistro

(photo credit: PR)

Being a huge fan of Adora for so many years, it was quite disconcerting to hear that the Tel Aviv restaurant had been closed for a few months of renovation and would be reopening with a new chef and menu. So it was with much trepidation that we traipsed over to the new Adora Bistro on a chilly Saturday night. I can honestly say that all my misgivings were left at the door.

Whereas the decor of Adora had an old world feel about it, Adora Bistro is funky, eclectic and modern. We sat at the bar, which gave us a nice overview of the restaurant and the open kitchen, where you can see co-owner and chef Eli Shtein (formerly of Toto) together with his sous-chefs creating their culinary magic.

The restaurant’s bartender Noa wanted my dining companion and me to get a good understanding of the new menu, so after we provided a little guidance as to our likes and dislikes, we were brought a parade of tastes.

The menu offers a wide variety of culinary styles, taken from Israeli, French, Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines. The tasty dishes are complemented by the finest selection of Israeli wines, both local and international.

First up was the crispy lettuce salad (NIS 48). The mustard and cherry vinaigrette was light and not overpowering. The roasted pistachios brought out the saltiness and crunch. The soft sheep cheese just popped the flavors together. I would go back to the restaurant just for this delicious, refreshing, nutty, rich salad. It was creative in both taste and presentation – a great way to start off a meal.

This was followed by raw local fish with yellow chutney, schug and sweet potato cream (NIS 68). This was a whirlwind of sauces and flavors, competing with the delectable raw fish. I’m not sure where they source their fish from, but the quality was exceptional. After finishing this dish, I appreciated how each little garnish and sauce had a distinct purpose.

Next up was the beef tartare (NIS 56). I took my first bite and was totally smitten. It was tender and juicy and delicious. The spicy mustard brought a good amount of heat to the dish, anchovies added a little salt, while the Gouda added some texture. Bread was nicely toasted and acted as a good platform for the beef.

Our second main dish was the duck tortellini (NIS 68), which were one of the best tortellinis I’ve ever had. The duck was tender and well seasoned, wrapped around deliciously buttered tortellini. With just one taste, I could appreciate both the simplicity and the complexity of the flavors. The fragrance of the broth was incredible; it had a savory aroma and a slightly bitter note. This was definitely my favorite dish of the night.

After a bit of a breather, we were presented with the beef fillet accompanied by a creamy mustard sauce and pan-fried Russian potatoes (NIS 134). The beef, tender and perfectly cooked to medium, went well with the sauce and the potatoes.

Normally I have to add a lot of salt to my fillets to bring them up to my preferred salt level, but this was seasoned with basic salt and pepper perfectly, no extra seasoning needed.

For dessert we shared the warm Buche cheese on brioche with plums, as well as a wonderfully creamy dark chocolate mousse. Both were especially good.

From start to finish, the dinner was a great experience. The atmosphere was wonderful, and I would say snag a seat at the bar if you can.

The writer was a guest of the restaurant.

Adora Bistro Not kosher 226 Ben-Yehuda St., Tel Aviv Tel: (03) 605-0896