Why are some wines better than others, and what justifies the prices of top wines?
By OFER ZEMACHpouring wine glass 88(photo credit: )
With different styles, varietals, regions and labels, great wines are often made in small quantities and priced accordingly. Those who are truly interested in wine know that often to get a memorable wine, you occasionally need to dig a little deeper into your pocket. But is there really a quantitative difference in the quality of a NIS 200 bottle of wine and a NIS 60 bottle of wine?
The bottom line is it does cost more to make better wines: The necessary care in the vineyard, restricting yields towards increasing quality and the cost of good new oak barrels ramp the prices up.
Additionally, the buzz word in the world of wine for the past decade is terroir: the French term describing the influence of the place where the grapes are grown (climate, soil, altitude). It is obvious that the same grape varieties grown in different locations will make wines that are somewhat different, even when treated the same way in the winery.
A high-end winery could and sometimes does make a fine blend from grapes sourced at high quality vineyards. But such blends are usually labeled as regional, or single vineyard wines, meaning that the fruits were harvested at one vineyard or even from a specific section within the vineyard. Of course they are priced accordingly.
Conversely, cheap wine grapes can be sourced from several regions. This allows producers to mix grapes from more reputable districts with grapes grown at less reliable vineyards, then blend them together to get a decent wine.
Finally - as with many other products - there is the issue of reputation, which matters especially in the elitist world of wine. We tend to expectation a lot out of bottles of wine made in a well-established winery, where the quality is supposed to be rather good.
Although our senses of taste and smell can easily be fooled by a sophisticated label adorning the bottle, exceptionally great wines are to be found. But don't expect to find one at your neighborhood supermarket.
Here are three recommended wines made with an extra care in light of the terroir of the grapes. Each is a different winery's flagship.
Yatir, Ya'ar Yatir 2005:
Named after the forest surrounding the vineyards, Ya'ar Yatir is the highlight of this boutique winery. The vineyards, 900 meters above sea level, are situated at the southern Judean Hills, which has been a premium wine growing area since biblical times. The blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 13% Petite Verdot grapes has multilayers of complex flavors with long lingering finish. Yet, for all its boldness and intensity, there is a lush elegance and balance that makes Ya'ar Yatir unique and distinctive. NIS 230
Recanati, Special Reserve 2005:
Special Reserve is a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the winery's Kadita vineyard on Mount Meron and Merlot grapes from the vineyard at Manara. The fruit was handpicked and carefully selected for optimal ripeness, then gently crushed to avoid bitterness. For the first four months, the grapes of each vineyard were aged separately. After blending, the wine was aged for another 19 months in the barrels. Powerful in fruit and tannins, this full-bodied wine manages to be stylish and elegant. The oak is well-integrated and the extra time in bottle has melded it all together. Presenting an array of blackberries and cherries, with a hint of eucalyptus, this wine is absolutely delicious now, but will hold and improve in the next couple of years. NIS 179 (kosher)
Carmel Limited Edition 2005:
Limited Edition is a classic Bordeaux blend made of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon from Upper Galilee, 17% Petite Verdot picked in the Judean Hills, 15% Merlot from Upper Galilee and 3% Cabernet Franc. A dark red, nearly purple in color, this wine is full and creamy-textured on the palate with rich aromas and flavors that hint of ripe berries and violets with notes of coffee and vanilla. It was aged for 15 months in French oak barrels prior to bottling and matured in the bottle for another year before release. Should be great starting in 2010. The only problem - just 9,767 bottle were produced. NIS 230
ofer@jpost.com
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