Cavalier, but with attitude

An 18-year-old French restaurant comes of age

By SYBIL KAPLAN
Cavalier Restaurant sea bream (photo credit: courtesy)
Cavalier Restaurant sea bream
(photo credit: courtesy)
For the past 18 years, an intimate French restaurant has been located on a short path around the corner from the National Insurance Institute. Last year, in a Channel 10 survey, Cavalier was named the third best restaurant in Israel by those interviewed.
How it started Two months ago, long-time chef Didi Benarosh (and co-owner with his brother, Avi) decided to take a background role, and Uri Levy, highly trained in Paris and Tel Aviv, joined the team as chef and general manager.
ExperienceLevy was born and raised in Ramat Gan, where his father owned a bakery and now owns a restaurant.
The family spent two years in Las Vegas; Levy served in the IDF then attended the Tadmor Culinary School in Herzliya.
From there he went to the Seven Species restaurant in Eilat, spending four years working with Yonatan Roshfeld, where he says he learned “how to look at food, how to feel the music in your mouth and all the connections.”
From 2007 to 2010 he studied under Joel Robuchon in Paris at his two restaurants, “the best schooling I could have,” before returning to Jerusalem and Cavalier, what he calls a “chef’s restaurant,” with French/Mediterranean cuisine.
Decor The two-room restaurant is in an old building with stone arches that complement the pale yellow walls and soft wall lights. Three wine racks are built into the walls. The larger room seats 27; the smaller one seats 19 and is decorated with a wall of liquor bottles and a wall of mirrors. The floors, tables and chairs are made out of wood. The ambiance is simplicity, intimacy and class.Cuisine Avi Benarosh characterizes the food as French classic by technique and modern French cuisine. There are nine appetizers from goose liver to tuna sashimi; four fish and seafood entrees; and five meat entrees. The business lunch (from NIS 79) includes a choice of soups and salads and eight main courses, dessert is extra.
“Every day I go to Mahaneh Yehuda to see what is fresh so I can make a lot of specials besides the menu,” says Levy.
Most popular dish on the menu
 “Crab ravioli and seafood plate.”

Favorite item on the menu
“Everything with fish and seafood and lamb and couscous.”

Best part of the job
Levy: “Everything, especially the challenge. I love the people and now I am starting to know the Jerusalem crowd. They have good taste; they understand food.”
Avi Benarosh adds that among his customers are the prime minister and his father, who eats there several times a week, the mayor, MKs, lawyers and judges. The restaurant is looking for ways to attract young professionals.

Biggest accomplishment
“Satisfying Avi.”

Best part of the job
“To see the people smile after they eat and to hear them say it was amazing.”

Who cooks at home?
“Uri’s partner Gal, a graphic designer, who cooks healthy, fresh and light foods at home.”

Cavalier is located at 1 Ben-Sira Street, 624-2945. It is open seven days a week from 12 noon to 3:30 and 6:30 to 11:30 p.m. Not kosher. •

Sea bream with wine, asparagus and basil
400 gr. sea bream
1 Tbsp. soft butter or oil
pinch salt
pinch black pepper
10 stalks asparagus, one quarter of rough end cut off
pinch salt
Sauce
120 gr. shallots
4 sliced garlic cloves
6 halved cherry tomatoes
50 gr. butter a drop of olive oil
200 ml. white wine
pinch salt
pinch pepper
30 mint leaves
60 gr. butter
lemon zest of half a lemon
1⁄4 cup sauce from cooking the fish
Take fish and cover with 1 Tbsp. butter or oil and place in a baking dish. Sprinkle salt and black pepper on top. Bake in 220ºC oven for 8 minutes.
Boil water in a saucepan with a pinch of salt. Add asparagus one minute before fish is ready. (If asparagus is unavailable, broccoli, spinach or Swiss chard can be used.) Put 50 gr. butter in another saucepan.
Add drop of oil, shallots and garlic. Cook for 1 minute. Add wine, salt, pepper and mint leaves. Add 60 gr. butter and lemon zest and cook to reduce for 2 minutes.
Add cherry tomatoes and cook for 1 minute. You can also add 1⁄4 cup of sauce from the fish.
Remove the asparagus from the water and place on a plate. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Spoon the cherry tomato-shallot sauce on top of the asparagus.
Remove fish from oven, drain on paper towel and add to plate, skin side up.
Garnish with baby basil leaves. Serve with mashed potatoes.
Makes 2 servings.