Restaurant Review: Ewa Safi

Ewa Safi serves authentic kosher Jewish cuisine from Morocco.

By
October 6, 2016 20:26
3 minute read.
Ewa Safi

Ewa Safi. (photo credit: PR)

 
X

Dear Reader,
As you can imagine, more people are reading The Jerusalem Post than ever before. Nevertheless, traditional business models are no longer sustainable and high-quality publications, like ours, are being forced to look for new ways to keep going. Unlike many other news organizations, we have not put up a paywall. We want to keep our journalism open and accessible and be able to keep providing you with news and analyses from the frontlines of Israel, the Middle East and the Jewish World.

As one of our loyal readers, we ask you to be our partner.

For $5 a month you will receive access to the following:

  • A user experience almost completely free of ads
  • Access to our Premium Section
  • Content from the award-winning Jerusalem Report and our monthly magazine to learn Hebrew - Ivrit
  • A brand new ePaper featuring the daily newspaper as it appears in print in Israel

Help us grow and continue telling Israel’s story to the world.

Thank you,

Ronit Hasin-Hochman, CEO, Jerusalem Post Group
Yaakov Katz, Editor-in-Chief

UPGRADE YOUR JPOST EXPERIENCE FOR 5$ PER MONTH Show me later Don't show it again

It’s not always easy to find restaurants that serve kosher Moroccan food in the Tel Aviv area.

However, the search is over. Situated in the picturesque quarter of Neveh Tzedek, the newly opened Ewa Safi caters to anyone seeking authentic home-style Moroccan cuisine at its finest.

Be the first to know - Join our Facebook page.


Approaching the restaurant, we knew immediately that we were in for a treat. Greeted by a charming outdoor seating area, my dining partner and I sat down to enjoy a final moment of anticipation before beginning what was guaranteed to be a gratifying culinary experience.

Ewa Safi (meaning “Leave me alone with your nonsense” or, in short, “Move on” in Moroccan slang) is owned by siblings Miko and Shimon Barak. They decided to open the restaurant in honor of their mother in order to convey the tastes, aromas and colors of the food they had experienced during their childhood.

To that end, their mother, Suleika, has been enlisted to train the restaurant’s team of cooks.

The atmosphere is warm, cozy and welcoming, with beautiful Moroccan decorations around the restaurant.

The best way to experience Ewa Safi is with a large group, as the dishes are too varied and too delicious to order just one or two.



As we sat down, our enthusiastic waiter began to bring us a selection of salads and dips. As well as the usual eggplant dips, tehina and chopped salad, there were some interesting tomato and pepper matbuha salads, a traditional beet salad and spicy carrots.

We wiped the plates clean with some delicious homemade Moroccan farina bread. While we could have easily filled up on the flavorful spreads and salads, we made an executive decision to stop and leave room for the next course.

We began with the meat cigars (NIS 42) stuffed with slow-cooked beef ribs blended with traditional Moroccan spices. Served with tehina, the cigars were crispy and crunchy on the outside, while the meat inside was juicy and tender. This was comfort food at its best.

Being South African and having grown up with traditional sweet meat dishes such as Babotie, I was pleasantly surprised by the Moroccan pastille (NIS 56). It consisted of a sweet, crispy filo pastry envelope filled with chunks of spring chicken, slowcooked shoulder of lamb, nuts, toasted almonds and caramelized dried fruit. The blend of sweet and spicy ingredients was perfectly balanced, making it a delicious reminder of home.

In between, we were treated to some deliciously sweet and spicy cocktails, such as the Berber Cosmo, consisting of vodka citron, lemon Cointreau, cranberry and beetroot.

The next dish consisted of slowcooked veal cheek (NIS 48) served with whole chickpeas, tehina and green salad. The veal came in generous chunks and was soft and succulent. My dining partner and I savored every last bite.

We then split the lamb tagine (NIS 118), which proved to be a big winner. It had this wonderful saltysweet combo of onions, caramelized prunes and cinnamon that went really well with the gamey lamb, which was tender and falling off the bone. The sweet components balanced the savory taste far better than I ever could have hoped. The dish was accompanied by vegetable couscous and pumpkin confit.

Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, we were presented with char grilled shoulder of beef (NIS 54) served with Moroccan fries. Sliced in thin strips, the beef was all that we had dreamt of and more. The seasoning was just right, not too much salt or spices.

We ended the meal with an assortment of delicious Moroccan cookies and some mint tea.

In my opinion, Ewa Safi is a great new addition to the kosher Tel Aviv dining scene. As it has just opened, I can imagine that every aspect of this already fabulous restaurant will only get better and stronger.

The writer was a guest of the restaurant.

Ewa Safi
Kosher
8 Hashachar Street, Tel Aviv
054-253-3348

Related Content

Netta Barzilai performs after winning the Grand Final of Eurovision Song Contest 2018 at the Altice
August 16, 2018
Billionaire offers to help stage Eurovision in Israel

By ANAT BEIN-LEIBOVITZ\GLOBES