Authentic Israel

The Jezreel Valley has the unique distinction of being the setting of biblical and modern history.

Ducks roam around the Duck Village in Kfar Baruch. (photo credit: MEITAL SHARABI)
Ducks roam around the Duck Village in Kfar Baruch.
(photo credit: MEITAL SHARABI)
The Jezreel Valley is one of the most beautiful places in all of Israel – and also one of the most popular – yet it has managed to retain its authenticity. Many biblical stories took place in this region, especially those in the Book of Judges, as well as modern historical events in the beginning of the 20th century, when early Zionists began settling the valley. Every year, visitors flock to the region for the valley’s unique geography, which spreads out over 380 square kilometers and fills the area between the Carmel Mountains, Mount Gilboa and Mount Tabor.
The first site I suggest visiting is the historical police station in Nahalal, where Jewish guards once served as part of the pre-state British police force. The old police building on Road 75 (at the entrance to Manshiya Zabda), which was renovated and is operated by the Society for Preservation of Israel Heritage Sites, was inaugurated in 1936 despite the many riots taking place at the time. The station’s strategic location between Nazareth and Kibbutz Yagur, in an area where both Jews and Arabs lived, made it easier for the Jews to protect themselves; many of the Jewish guards also offered assistance to Hagana members.
The historic building now houses a museum which shows how the Jews in the British forces lived in those early years. In the same building, there is a modern-day police station; it is quite an experience to speak with the traffic officers who work next-door to the museum. In the museum, a visual display contrasts the atmosphere and connections between the Jewish British guards of yesteryear and the modern police officers of today. There is also a short video about Maj.-Gen. Meir Amit, who once worked as a guard in the Jezreel Valley, a short film in the old stable compound and an exhibition of historic photographs and relics of the period.
There are a number of children’s activities at the old police station, too – the most exciting of which is an interactive game in which participants simulate a Nahalal police attack. The children are split into two groups – half are the attackers, the other half the defenders; they then act out attacks carried out by Palmah activists. At the end of the session, the children all receive personalized certificates. Another activity involves decoding riddles, beginning in Ramat David at Stein’s Electric Bicycle shop. Participants ride electric bikes and pass historical spots, the last one being the Nahalal station.
Price: NIS 12
Preregistration required: Anat, (04) 641-5073
Not far away in Kfar Baruch, the Duck Village awaits. Located in the middle of a farm, the village teaches visitors about all the stages ducks go through – from the moment eggs are laid, through the various incubation stages, all the way until the ducklings hatch and venture out into the big, wide world. As the guide explains the incubation stages, he “lights up” one of the eggs with a flashlight and you can see the chick fetus inside of it. It’s kind of like an ultrasound, just without all the fancy equipment. Seventy-five-minute guided tours lead adults and children through the farm and quaint petting zoo, to learn all about the different types of duck eggs and their color, size and thickness. Participants also learn about which animals hatch from eggs: birds, reptiles, insects, arthropods, amphibians and some fish; the children are then sent out to collect the eggs. The next stop is the coop, where the chicks are raised; then the pool, where the water birds frolic and play. The last stop is the hatchery, to peek at the incubators where the eggs remain until they hatch. There’s also a café and an arts and crafts area in the visitor’s center. In short, there’s something for everyone.
Price: NIS 43 per person
Preregistration recommended, Sunday-Friday: 04-654-0882
Take a trip to the Israeli circus school in Kfar Yehoshua, which offers an array of unique circus activities the last Saturday of every month. Workshops are open to all visitors, and participants are welcome to jump in the inflatable moonbounces, ride on a unicycle and participate in acrobatics. There’s a coffee and tea bar for adults, and pizza for sale. At 12:15 p.m., a guest artist performs for 45 minutes of juggling and laughter.
Price: NIS 35 per person (maximum NIS 120 per family)
Hours: 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Details: 054-231-3134
Families will also find a number of surprises in the rural settlement of Yokne’am; one is the Alexander Kirzner sculpture garden and mini-museum. Kirzner, who was born in St. Petersburg to a family of musicians, rebelled and instead engaged in dance. His collection of sculptures incorporates dance, music and World War II themes. For 35 years, Kirzner created these sculptures using a variety of materials; about 270 statues are on display in his old house in Yokne’am, with the reliefs he created adorning the walls. Walk through the museum and listen to music handpicked for this exhibit; you can’t help but admire the artist’s frankness.
Hours: Museum is open daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; visits are by appointment only.
The gallery is located near the first traffic circle at the entrance to the village.
Price: NIS 25 per person
Details: (04) 989-0520
Not far from the gallery sits a culinary gem. Ayelet’s Kitchen, a dairy eatery open for business in the mornings and early afternoons, offers an incredible brunch menu. Located in beautiful, rural surroundings, it boasts many flowers and a greenhouse full of herbs, which chef Ayelet Shafriri uses in many of the delicious dishes. The concept behind the restaurant is a tasting brunch; each table receives 10 dishes that are meant to be shared during the 90-minute meal. The menu changes depending on what produce is in season.
Hours: Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Price: NIS 85 per person, including hot and cold drinks, plus dessert.
Details: 052-813-4105.
Translated by Hannah Hochner.