Lighter fare for the Festival of Lights

A healthier take on the Hanukka classics.

Latkes 311 (photo credit: DeGennaro Studios/ ’Faye Levy’s International Jewi)
Latkes 311
(photo credit: DeGennaro Studios/ ’Faye Levy’s International Jewi)
Some call Hanukka the festival of fried foods, as most of us indulge in latkes and sufganiyot during the eight-day holiday.
Many health-conscious eaters are concerned about the feasting, as they are mindful that such traditional Hanukka fare is not waistline-friendly.
With their nutritionally aware friends in mind, Hanukka hosts sometimes put out a plate of raw vegetables like celery and carrot sticks and broccoli florets, accompanied by a dip. At a holiday dinner party I attended, I noticed that none of the guests touched the raw veggies, preferring to heap their plates with stuffing, hearty casseroles and pies.
Although raw vegetables with dips might appeal in the summer, for Hanukka the way to go is to serve satisfying cooked vegetables. The trick to tempting finicky eaters is to provide wholesome side dishes that can stand their ground on the same table with a platter of potato latkes.
You can present cooked vegetables as a colorful salad and serve it warm or at room temperature.
For a favorite Hanukka salad in my family, I mix crisp-tender cooked green beans with chickpeas, black olives and diced tomatoes and dress them with fresh lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil and aromatic basil. Freshly toasted walnuts add a festive touch.
Roasted vegetables make an enticing appetizer or side dish to accompany latkes of all types.
Sweet vegetables like carrots, winter squash and sweet potatoes are great when roasted, as are Mediterranean favorites – eggplants, peppers and tomatoes. You can also roast green vegetables like broccoli florets and asparagus. Moisten the vegetables lightly with fruity olive oil for a wonderful aroma and flavor, and season them well.
Latkes made from other vegetables make lighter, pleasing partners for potato pancakes.
Our traditional potato latkes probably came from Russia, but in that country mushroom pancakes are also popular. To make them, wrote Anne Volokh in The Art of Russian Cuisine, cooked mushrooms are ground with soaked bread, sauteed onions, eggs and salt, and the mixture is dipped in bread crumbs and fried. I make easier latkes from sliced mushrooms sauteed with onions, and use matza meal to thicken the batter. Latkes made from grated white squash (kishuim) or cooked spinach are also delicious.
For a lighter sauce for vegetable latkes as well as potato latkes, make yogurt sauce as an alternative to the standard sour cream. Mix good quality plain yogurt or labaneh with salt, pepper and a touch of garlic or a little chopped fresh dill, and enjoy a guilt-free Hanukka.

MUSHROOM PANCAKES WITH FRESH DILL
When making the pancakes, you can add 1⁄4 cup finely chopped peeled celery to the skillet along with the mushrooms for extra flavor. A good topping is yogurt or labaneh mixed with salt, pepper and fresh dill. For a colorful garnish, set a few strips of roasted peppers, sun dried tomatoes or lox on each pancake.
110 gr. small mushrooms, rinsed very lightly and patted dry
5 to 7 Tbsp. olive oil or vegetable oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. snipped fresh dill (see Note below) Salt and pepper
2 large eggs, slightly beaten
2 or 3 Tbsp. matza meal
Separate mushroom stems from caps; halve caps and stems lengthwise and cut in thin slices. Heat 2 or 3 tablespoons oil in a large skillet. Add onion and saute over mediumlow heat for 5 minutes. Add mushrooms and saute for 8 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Let cool. Transfer to a bowl. Add dill, salt, pepper, eggs, and 2 tablespoons matza meal. Mix well; if mixture appears watery, add another tablespoon matza meal.
Heat 3 or 4 tablespoons oil in a deep, heavy, large skillet. For each latke, drop 1 heaping tablespoon of mixture into pan. Flatten them slightly with back of a spoon. Fry over medium heat about 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Turn very carefully using two spatulas. Drain on paper towels. Stir mixture before frying each new batch. If all the oil is absorbed, add a little more to pan. Serve hot.
Makes 14 small pancakes, 4 or 5 appetizer or side-dish servings.
Note: If you don’t have fresh dill, you can substitute 1 teaspoon dried dill.
SQUASH LATKES WITH SAVORY YOGURT TOPPING
Make these latkes with white squash (kishuim) or with zucchini. When you use zucchini, the green color of their skins gives a delicate green hue to the latkes.
3 cups coarsely grated white squash or zucchini
1 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic
1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley (optional) Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 Tbsp. flour 1 large egg, lightly beaten
3 or 4 Tbsp. olive oil (for frying)
Yogurt garlic topping (see Note below)
Mint sprigs (for garnish)
Squeeze grated zucchini and discard any liquid that comes out of them. Combine zucchini, garlic, pepper, salt. Add beaten egg and stir in lightly. Stir in flour.
Heat oil in a deep heavy large skillet. For each pancake, drop 1 heaping tablespoon of zucchini mixture into pan. Flatten them slightly with back of a spoon. Fry over medium heat about 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Turn very carefully so oil doesn’t splatter. Drain on paper towels. Stir mixture before frying each new batch. If all the oil is absorbed, add a little more to pan. Serve hot, with topping. Garnish with mint sprigs.
Makes 12 small cakes, about 4 appetizer or side-dish servings.
Note: Yogurt Garlic Topping: Mix 1⁄2 cup plain yogurt or labaneh with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste and 1⁄2 small garlic clove, finely minced. If you like, stir in 11⁄2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint or parsley.
ROASTED EGGPLANT WITH SWEET PEPPERS AND GARLIC
Serve these savory vegetables with latkes, baked fish or roast chicken. Instead of roasting the vegetables whole, you can cut the raw eggplants into cubes and the peppers into strips, toss them with oil, salt and pepper and then roast them. Stir the cut vegetables once or twice as they roast; there is no need to peel them.
700 gr. small eggplants
2 large sweet red peppers
2 sweet green or yellow peppers
1 head garlic (optional)
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. lemon juice or a few lemon wedges (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Cayenne pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 200º. Rinse vegetables and pat dry. Separate garlic into cloves and wrap them tightly in foil. Line a roasting pan with foil if you like. Prick each eggplant a few times with a fork and put in roasting pan. Put peppers in pan and add foil-wrapped garlic. Bake peppers and garlic 35 to 40 minutes, and eggplants 40 to 60 minutes or until tender; turn vegetables once during roasting.
Transfer peppers to a bowl and cover tightly or wrap in a plastic bag. Let stand 10 minutes. Peel with aid of a paring knife. Halve and drain liquid from inside peppers. Remove core. Quarter lengthwise. Peel eggplant if you like. Quarter each eggplant lengthwise.
Alternate eggplant and pepper pieces on platter. Add roasted garlic cloves without peeling them. Sprinkle eggplant and peppers with oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper and cayenne. Serve with lemon wedges if you like. Garlic can be squeezed out of cloves onto eggplant.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Faye Levy is the author of 1,000 Jewish Recipes and Healthy Cooking for the Jewish Home.