In Tel Aviv’s gray bermuda triangle: A kosher Italian gem at a surprising price

Between the courthouses and the office towers of Shaul Hamelech Street hides a kosher Italian surprise. With a brief lesson in the etymology of carbohydrates, precise attention to textures, and an encouraging final bill – Professor Rafi Carasso marks your next lunch destination.

On a typical Tel Aviv afternoon, in front of the bustle of the courthouses and the Kirya building, Professor Rafi Carasso stepped into the space of the Joya restaurant in the IBM building. He arrived accompanied by a friend who keeps kosher, and the two wanted to see if the longstanding Italian institution manages to maintain high standards even in its kosher, dairy version.

The meal began at an Italian pace with a large bottle of sparkling water (NIS 27), but the real excitement started with the arrival of the first dishes. Carasso chose the arancini (NIS 56) – four brown, tempting rice balls resting on a puddle of rich tomato sauce.

While tasting, Carasso couldn’t resist commenting on the dish’s culinary background. In Sicily, it is called "arancini" (named after the "arancio" – the orange), whereas in Rome and further north it is known as "supplì." He recalled memories of the Roman version, where the melted mozzarella is supposed to stretch like a thin telephone wire when cut.

Immediately afterward, the polenta was served (NIS 56). Carasso described a buttery, creamy, delicate corn porridge, which he said was "an unparalleled comforting dish." However, his sharp eye noticed the asparagus stalks on top; while the other components melted in the mouth, the asparagus was fibrous and unnecessary – a minor flaw in an almost perfect dish.

For the main course, the two ordered porcini and chestnut gnocchi (NIS 82). The plate presented soft clouds of gnocchi in a rich sauce of butter, cream, and Parmesan, accompanied by aromatic mushrooms. Here again, the persistent asparagus appeared, but Carasso admitted that its bright green color against the creamy sauce made it easy to remove and continue enjoying the excellent dish.

The finale was dedicated to a classic of Italian cuisine: Tiramisu (NIS 49). Carasso smiled and explained the meaning of the name – "tira-mi-su" (pull me up) – and elaborated on the importance of the layers of espresso-soaked ladyfingers and whipped mascarpone. Although the dish did not strictly adhere to the classic rules, it proved "delightfully tasty" and closed the meal on a sweet note.

Before returning to the street bustle, Carasso summarized the experience. The service was pleasant, "even if a bit slow," and the final bill came to NIS 297 – a sum that received a 15% "business lunch" discount. According to him, this is an especially good deal.

"We left full, satisfied, and in good spirits," Carasso concluded the visit. For him, Joya is a worthy Italian stop that proves good food, historical knowledge, and pleasant company are the sure recipe for mental well-being.