Tradition and Yiddishkeit at Keton

Long-standing Tel Aviv establishment serves Ashkenazi cuisine not only during the holidays

Keton (photo credit: Courtesy)
Keton
(photo credit: Courtesy)
Keton, one of Tel Aviv’s oldest establishments, has been serving East European Jewish food since 1945. Located on Dizengoff Street, it has survived the changing times, offering a home for those who miss the Ashkenazi food of their childhood, but still manages to stay attuned to the preferences of the new generation.

Beyond passing trends and current fashions, Keton continues its founders’ traditions, offering the likes of gefilte fish, traditional chicken soup with matzah balls or kreplach, tzimmes (sweet cooked carrots), knishes, ptcha or galareta (in Hebrew, regel krusha), stuffed cabbage, kishke, homemade pickles, tongue, cholent and so much more. In fact, if you miss the flavors of your childhood, you will probably find them here – wonderful Jewish cuisine of Poland, Hungary and Russia.

We ordered items from the Rosh Hashanah menu and received two big bags containing neatly packed dishes that were enough for three hungry people.

We started with chopped liver and homemade horseradish, egg salad with challa and delicious herring, which went very well with a shot of frozen vodka we prepared in anticipation of the delivery.

The ptcha, which not everybody is brave enough to try, was saved for the real enthusiast. He devoured it with a big smile. Next came the meat knishes, the Jewish tortellini, made from potato dough with meat stuffing and fried with onions. Delicious. And then the main dish, which was a slow-roasted goose leg served with mashed potatoes, cabbage and kasha. The meat literally fell off the bone and was cooked to perfection. We paired the main dishes with some local beer that was waiting in the fridge.

An hour later we were ready for dessert, which was – of course – dried fruit compote that tasted exactly like my grandmother’s. Delightful.

Elsewhere on the menu we saw dishes such as home-style goulash, osso buco, varnishkes, chicken schnitzel and meat patties, to name but a few of Keton’s popular dishes.

We loved the food, shed a tear remembering our grandmothers, and vowed to order some more, not only during the holidays.

Keto
Not kosher
145 Dizengoff, Tel Aviv
Deliveries daily from midday to 8 p.m. Order online (www.keton.co.il) or call (03) 523-3679