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I first came to Israel in January 1975, the first winter after the Yom Kippur War, the country still nursing its wounds. For most of the half year that I was in Israel, I volunteered on a religious kibbutz 15 miles inland from the coastal city of Ashdod, whose gleaming white buildings I could see on a clear day across a sea of orange groves.

It was a cold rainy winter, and in the unheated poorly insulated rooms in which we slept, warmed for only a few hours in the evening by pungent kerosene heaters, it felt like the coldest winter I had ever experienced. The kibbutz grounds were often a sea of mud. The nights came early and were incredibly dark; lighting everywhere was kept to a minimum to save on fuel.

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