It was the day before Yom Kippur, about 4 in the morning. A Tel Aviv couple were making their way to the well-known Adas Synagogue in the Jerusalem quarter of Nahlaot. There, they were to be exposed to the chanting of selichot (penitential prayers) in a traditional setting among the Sephardi worshipers. 

They were not alone. Their host was Mishael Vaknin, who had invited these secular friends to join him. They were visiting the capital and wanted to know where to spend their last night doing something meaningful. They thought of joining a tourist group who were to be taken around a number of synagogues where selichot were being said.

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