FISH AND SAFFRON PILAF"} 75:{"position":21,"content":"For this plov, or pilaf, from Turkmenistan, wrote Caroline Eden and Eleanor Ford, sturgeon from the Caspian Sea is the usual choice, but any firm white fish such as halibut works well."} 76:{"position":22,"content":"Serves 4"} 77:{"position":23,"content":"1½ cups basmati rice"} 78:{"position":24,"content":"4 onions (1 halved and 3 thinly sliced)"} 79:{"position":25,"content":"1 Tbsp. black peppercorns, crushed"} 7a:{"position":26,"content":"1 bay leaf"} 7b:{"position":27,"content":"A small bunch of parsley"} 7c:{"position":28,"content":"Sea salt"} 7d:{"position":29,"content":"400 gr. halibut fillets"} 7e:{"position":30,"content":"¼ cup sesame oil or vegetable oil"} 7f:{"position":31,"content":"3 carrots, sliced into matchsticks"} 80:{"position":32,"content":"A small handful of dill fronds"} 81:{"position":33,"content":"1 tsp. dill seeds"} 82:{"position":34,"content":"1 tsp. ground black pepper"} 83:{"position":35,"content":"A large pinch of saffron strands, soaked in 3 Tbsp. warm water"} 84:{"position":36,"content":"½ cup sour cream"} 85:{"position":37,"content":"Juice of 1 lemon"} 86:{"position":38,"content":"Put the rice in a large bowl to soak while you poach the fish."} 87:{"position":39,"content":"Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a large pan and add the halved onion, along with peppercorns, bay leaf, and stems from parsley. Season well with salt and lower in fish fillets. Cook at a very gentle simmer until fish is just opaque through to the middle, up to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness. Remove fish with a slotted spoon and set aside. Strain and reserve broth. You’ll use the pan again later."} 88:{"position":40,"content":"In a second large cooking pot, in which you’ll cook the rice, heat the oil until almost smoking, then add the sliced onions and carrots. Stir-fry until vegetables start to soften. Pour in drained rice and smooth down with back of a spoon. Pour in enough of t

Flavors of Samarkand and beyond

'Samarkand is a city that has been at the crossroads of food culture for centuries.'

See more on