Hearty German cooking

Bayern serves up large portions and big flavor

Bayern Bavarian Brasserie (photo credit: PR)
Bayern Bavarian Brasserie
(photo credit: PR)
Authentic German food is not easy to find outside Germany. However, Bayern has mastered German cuisine. This is honestly the best German food I’ve ever had in Israel.
The restaurant was opened two years ago by three childhood friends, with young chef Ofer Ben- Or assuming the position of head chef. Ben-Or, who is the son of the Dan Hotel chain’s head chef Sagi Ben-Or, worked and trained in Michelin-star restaurants in France.
When you first walk through the front door, you immediately get a comfortable feeling from the place. There’s a bar near the entrance, and tables are scattered throughout the restaurant. It has a great set-up conducive to enjoying German beers, eating hearty German food and watching some sports. The super-friendly wait staff helps make everyone feel comfortable.
The menu is not that daunting to get through. They have the German name for most of the fare, followed by the Hebrew/ English explanation of what it contains.
We started our meal with the giant Bavarian pretzel with a three- cheese dipping sauce. When they say “giant,” they really mean it. It was enough to fill two people up for a while. This was followed by spaten onion soup (NIS 34). From the presentation to the flavors to the delicious bread served alongside it, this soup was unforgettable and a perfect starter on a particularly cold Tel Aviv night.
Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, we were presented with the spaetzle noodles (NIS 32) with mushrooms and cheese. But I only could eat a few bites of it. While it was delicious, more than a few bites would have done me in.
After a bit of a breather, a series of main dishes was served. The star of the meal for me was the Schwarzwald veal schnitzel (NIS 72) in a mushroom cream sauce.
The meat was tender and soft, in a crust that felt more like a beer batter than a breading, and the portion was huge! This was followed by the rump roulade (NIS 93), which consisted of ground veal rolled in thin slices, served with a demi-glaze sauce and crispy potatoes. It had great flavor. However, the one negative thing about this dish was that the meat was a bit chewier than I would have liked.
Both main dishes were served with a small side salad, very creamy mashed potatoes, as well as some potato salad.
I shunned all trappings of good health for good eats, and the round of dessert brought forth the wonders of...
Kaiserschmarnn (NIS 30)! Literally meaning “emperor’s mishmash,” Kaiserschmarnn dates back to Austro-Hungarian ruler Franz Joseph and his waist- watching wife. History aside, it’s a type of pancake that has been split and almost shredded into bite- sized bits. Powdered sugar on top, fruit compote and a scoop of whipped cream set the scene.
And, of course, no German dining experience would be complete without some classic Viennese strudel (NIS 29). It was divine; warm and soft inside, crunchy outside. Truly memorable.
Overall, the food was absolutely delicious. The people sitting next to us said they have been going there since it opened, so the place evidently has a loyal clientele. So if you are on the fence about German/Austrian food, you should take the plunge at Bayern.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.
Bayern Bavarian Brasserie Not kosher 22 Frishman (corner Sirkin), Tel Aviv Tel: 077-556-5753