The next retinol: Meet the latest cry in facial care products

Discover Bakuchiol, the New Star Ingredient Competing with Retinol, Promising Youthful Skin Sans Side Effects. Let's Explore!

  (photo credit: PR)
(photo credit: PR)

The following article was published originally in June 2022. We are sharing it now for your perusal, but take into account that the following information may be outdated.

In the ever-evolving realm of dermatology, the name on everyone's lips is Bakuchiol. Touted as the next big thing in anti-aging skincare, Bakuchiol boasts wrinkle-blurring, spot-fading, and pore-treating abilities, all while being suitable for sensitive skin without the pesky side effects. 

So, is Bakuchiol, the unrivaled star of anti-aging products, poised to dethrone retinol? "Retinol remains one of the most important ingredients in cosmetic formulations for preventive and corrective skincare," says Dr. Lehavit Akerman, a skincare expert. "Vitamin A, known for its skin rejuvenating properties, is potent in prescription form, but Bakuchiol, its cosmetic derivative, also exhibits anti-aging effects. It reduces sebum production, aiding acne, promotes faster cell turnover, contributing to skin renewal, and a younger appearance. However, it has its drawbacks - it can irritate the skin, increase sensitivity to the sun, is contraindicated during pregnancy and lactation, and must be combined with moisturizers and nourishment."

Dr. Akerman explains that Bakuchiol is derived from a plant and clinical research evidences its wrinkle-improving effects. It doesn't cause skin irritation or sensitivity to the sun. "The exact mechanism by which the substance reduces wrinkles is not clear, and it certainly doesn't work in the same way as retinol. It can serve as an alternative for those sensitive to retinol, but further research is needed before we can determine a worthy substitute."

If you're inclined to try the ingredient set to dominate skincare shelves, let's contribute to science and present you with five products featuring Bakuchiol, known as the new retinol.

The Inkey List

A Bakuchiol product available at a modest price in nearby pharmacies is a moisturizer named exactly that by The Inkey List. Rich in omega-3 and additional oils, the product's overly liquid texture and peculiar scent irked the tester. However, the product itself is reasonable, intensely hydrating, soothing, and entirely devoid of retinol-like side effects, but nothing particularly exceptional to rave about.

Price: NIS 60 for 30ml. Available at pharmacies.

  (credit: PR)
(credit: PR)

Lierac's Serum Ampoules

Priced at NIS 658, Lierac offers a kit tailored for those willing to invest more time and patience in nightly serum application. The serum and accompanying gel (for normal or combination skin) or cream (for sensitive or dry skin) contain not only Bakuchiol but also hyaluronic acid and other revitalizing ingredients. After less than a month of consistent use, the tester noticed minimal changes in fine lines, but overall, her skin appeared decent, if not significantly improved.

Price: NIS 658 for 30ml serum and 40ml cream/gel. Available on the brand's website.

  (credit: PR)
(credit: PR)

AHAVA's Pratinol Series

AHAVA presents a series of products with "pre-retinol" ingredients from Dead Sea minerals, a safe alternative suitable for sun-exposed and pregnant skin. A tester with dry and delicate skin, although not witnessing miraculous disappearance of wrinkles, found the serum and cream to be highly moisturizing, absorbed well, providing an excellent makeup base, and not irritating. Thus, even if wrinkles weren't ironed out or even lightly smoothed, there was some improvement in appearance, which was satisfactory.

Price: NIS 319 for 50ml. Available at pharmacies and on the brand's website.

  (credit: PR)
(credit: PR)

O'oHawaii's Golden Nectar

O'oHawaii, an organic and vegan brand, offers a serum with ferulic acid, serving as a natural and safe substitute, suitable for all skin types, aiding in reducing spots and wrinkles. A tester with pigmentation spots reported a gel-like serum, with a contentious floral and medicinal scent, almost chemical on the skin, despite being chemical-free. Despite the smell, the serum did a commendable job in fading spots, nearly disappearing after a few days, and evening out the tone. However, wrinkles remained unchanged.

Price: NIS 219 for 40ml. Available at Oh Glow.

  (credit: PR)
(credit: PR)

Kiehl's Micro-Retinol Serum

Kiehl's offers a "safe" retinol serum with genuine retinol, albeit in low and precise doses, ensuring effectiveness and suitability for sensitive skin. After three weeks of consistent application, a tester with extremely delicate skin reported a more even and brighter skin tone and slight improvement in forehead wrinkles, but not in deeper ones around the lips. Previous retinol-induced side effects were almost nonexistent, making it a lightweight and pleasant daily product.

Price: NIS 349 for 50ml. Available at brand stores.

  (credit: PR)
(credit: PR)