There’s nothing like Albariño to start the summer, and also to get through the evenings of this never-ending war, especially in the shelter.
The Albariño grape has long since gained a foothold in restaurants and wine bars outside of Spain, its country of origin. It has also arrived here, in typically delayed fashion, in recent years. Its main characteristics are prominent fruit, sharp acidity, minerality, and immense freshness. In the current tasting – five Albariños and one Godello – from two wineries: Martin Codax and Granbazan, both located in the Rías Baixas region of Galicia, Spain.
Martin Codax Winery has been operating as a cooperative since 1986 and includes 50 growers. It also produces wines from other varieties (such as Godello). The current tasting features Codax’s entry-level wines, which represent a fruity and accessible side.
Granbazan Winery has been operating since the early 1980s, owned by the Otero family, in the Salnés Valley of Rías Baixas. Like Codax wines, Granbazan grows Albariño in the traditional "pergola" vineyard style of the region. Granbazan wines age in tanks, and the higher-end ones also age in wood. Naturally, they are intended for experienced drinkers, as they reveal more complex dimensions of Albariño, with wonderful minerality and plenty of character.
Together, the two wineries reveal the diverse faces of the region’s white wines, especially Albariño – both accessible and more complex. Codax wines are pure fun; Granbazan wines are gastronomic. Worth sipping, both inside the shelter and out. Cheers!
<br>Martin Codax, Mara Martin
A dry white wine based on Godello grapes from Monterrei, Galicia, Spain. Fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Golden color. On the nose, ripe white and yellow fruit. Medium body. 12.5% alcohol by volume.
How much? NIS 70.
Best suited for: Fish starters, chicken, pasta.
Reviewer’s note: Godello is less known here. In any wine bar or restaurant in Madrid, Godello is the most available wine by the glass, alongside Albariño. This wine offers fruity abundance, pleasant acidity, good structure, balance, and freshness. It’s unpretentious and designed for drinking by the glass at a restaurant or wine bar.
Value for money: 4/5 (very good).
<br>Martin Codax, Albariño Marieta 2023
How much? NIS 75.
Best suited for: Fish and seafood.
Reviewer’s note: A wine representing the more accessible face of Albariño. The fruity profile is much more pronounced than the others. It lacks a degree of balancing acidity. The mineral presence is not significant. It is overly sweet for experienced drinkers. Less experienced drinkers may be charmed by the noticeable fruit.
Value for money: 2/5.
<br>Martin Codax, Albariño 2022
How much? NIS 92.
Best suited for: Fish, seafood, shellfish, chicken.
Reviewer’s note: Unlike its predecessor, which was too sweet and flattering, this is a significant and worthy Albariño. The fruit profile is bold, the acidity excellent, and as per the grape’s nature, it is very refreshing with a strong personality factor. A delight.
Value for money: 3.5/5 (good).
<br>Granbazan, Albariño Etiqueta Verde 2023
How much? NIS 98.
Best suited for: Fish, seafood, tapas, chicken.
Reviewer’s note: Great freshness, resulting from significant yellow and white fruit and lemony aroma. Rich, elegant, slightly mineral, with sharp and good acidity and a fair amount of complexity.
Value for money: 3.5/5 (good).
<br>Granbazan, Albariño Etiqueta Amber 2023
How much? NIS 115.
Best suited for: Fish, seafood, shellfish.
Reviewer’s note: Very full-bodied, concentrated fruit but not overbearing, excellent acidity – sharp and cutting – abundant minerality, and a degree of creaminess. This is a wine with complexity and many nuances. Definitely not an accessible and refreshing Albariño. Clearly intended for more experienced drinkers and offers very good value for money.
Value for money: 3.5/5 (good).
<br>Granbazan, Albariño Limousin 2019
How much? NIS 160.
Best suited for: Fish, seafood, shellfish, lobster, pork.
Reviewer’s note: A particularly significant Albariño that needs time after uncorking to open up. It reached its best about an hour after opening, and it’s most enjoyable when not too cold. Mass, ripe fruit, spices, rich texture, significant minerality – all this alongside great freshness. Like the previous wine in the review, this one is also for connoisseurs.
Value for money: 3.5/5 (not cheap at all, but high and quality).