There are certain flavors or techniques that, every once in a while, call out to me for lack of attention – usually some taste I remember from my childhood.
By PASCALE PEREZ-RUBINUpdated: AUGUST 16, 2020 10:20Spicy colored carrots(photo credit: PASCALE PERETZ RUBIN AND CHAGIT GOREN)
I spend hours every day in my kitchen trying out new recipes or tweaking old ones. Sometimes I play around with a new ingredient or try out suggestions sent me by my faithful readers.There are certain flavors or techniques that, every once in a while, call out to me for lack of attention – usually some taste I remember from my childhood. It can be a certain aroma, sound or taste that sweeps me up and carries me back to an earlier time. And when that happens, I can’t wait to prepare a dish my mother (or in later years, my mother-in-law) would make so that I can indulge all my senses in the experience.Learn more about Pascale's Kitchen here>>Tunisian cuisine, in my opinion, is full of such unique, rich and yet delicate flavors. It involves extremely interesting techniques that make use of the most basic ingredients, such as vegetables, legumes and sometimes a little beef. Most of the protein in Tunisian dishes comes from the vegetables, herbs and legumes. The seasoning of these foods is delicate, just like the people who come from this region.When I got married, I was then exposed to Tripolitan cuisine, which has similar flavors and names.For example, similar dishes are made certain times of year when specific vegetables were in season. Some vegetables can be pickled, canned and then stored in the pantry for year-round use. Dried tomatoes in olive oil, green garlic or harissa are typical Tunisian seasonings used all year round.Some of my best memories are from when I would come home. I would pause before opening the front door and try to guess what my mother was cooking just by inhaling the fragrance. Sometimes it would be the pungent smell of a meat dish, or the sweet smell of orange and aniseed from my favorite cookies.Below, you will find three wonderful recipes from Tunisian cuisine that are quick and easy to prepare. Bon appétit!SPICY COLORED CARROTSThere’s a traditional Tunisian salad called mazura that is made from cooked carrots that are cooked again with onion and harissa. I tweaked this recipe and bake different colored carrots that are cut into strips, with garlic, harissa or pilpelchuma, caraway seeds and a little lemon.Makes 4-6 servings. Ingredients:5-6 large carrots, quartered lengthwise2 Tbsp. harissa or pilpelchuma2 garlic cloves, crushed½ tsp. caraway seedsOlive oilSalt and pepper, to tasteBaking paperAluminum foilPlace the carrot strips in a bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix. Cover the carrots with oil.Transfer the carrots to a baking pan, cover with foil and bake in an oven that was preheated to 200° for 30 minutes.Lower the temperature to 180° and bake another 20 minutes. Remove the foil and roast for 5-7 minutes, while keeping an eye on them so they don’t burn.Level of difficulty: Easy.Time: 1 hour. Status: Parve.Spicy colored carrots (Credit: PASCALE PEREZ-RUBIN AND CHAGIT GOREN)STUFFED ZUCCHINI AND ONIONSThis recipe, taken from my book Tripolitan Tastes, is in memory of my mother-in-law, Savta Gita, who supported me throughout all the stages of publishing the book. Most of the recipes, stories and idioms relayed in the book came from her.Makes 6-8 servings. 300 gr. ground beef1 large onion, peeled, rinsed and chopped finely10 stalks of parsley, rinsed and chopped finely½ tsp. ground cinnamon½ tsp. ground salt½ tsp. sweet paprika½ tsp. cumin¼ tsp. pepper1 egg4 medium, light-green zucchini, cut in half or into three sections, emptied of the seeds and insides (keep for later)2 large onions, peeled and separated into layersSauce:4 Tbsp. oil1 large onion, peeled, rinsed and chopped4 garlic cloves, peeled, rinsed and crushed2 Tbsp. tomato paste¼ tsp. pepper¼ tsp. cinnamon1 tsp. salt3-4 cups water3 potatoes, peeled, rinsed and quarteredPlace the meat in a bowl and add the onion, parsley, spices and egg. Mix well. Fill the zucchini and onion layers with the meat mixture and place on a tray. Chop the insides from the zucchini and set aside.To prepare the sauce, heat the oil in a large, flat pan. Add the onion, garlic and the insides from the zucchini and sauté for a few minutes. Add the tomato paste, spices and 2 cups of water. Stir and bring to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook for another 10 minutes covered.Place the stuffed vegetables tightly packed inside the pot with the sauce. Pour the rest of the water on top so that they’re covered by at least 1 cm. If needed, you can add more water. Cover the pot and cook for 40 minutes over a low flame. Serve hot with rice or couscous.Level of difficulty: Medium.Time: 90 minutes.Status: Meat.Stuffed zucchini and onions (Credit: PASCALE PEREZ-RUBIN AND CHAGIT GOREN) SWEET ROLLSMy mother, Esther, used to make these rolls every single Friday, and each week they would be a different shape. Sometimes she would sprinkle sesame or nigella seeds on these golden rolls. (Brush them twice with egg wash to enhance the golden shine.) Makes 24-28 rolls. 1 kg. flour, sifted50 gr. fresh yeast½ cup sugar½ cup oil1 tsp. salt1 egg2½-3 cups lukewarm water Egg wash: 1 beaten eggToppings:¼ cup nigella or black sesame seeds¼ cup sesame seeds Mix together the flour, yeast, sugar, oil, salt and egg. Add the water gradually, while kneading until mixed well. Let the dough rise in a warm place until it has doubled in volume (about 90 minutes).Separate the dough into 20-22 pieces. Shape them into small round balls, or any shape you want.Place them on a greased baking sheet and gently press down on them with your fingers. Cover with egg wash and let them rise another 15 minutes. Cover with more egg wash, then sprinkle with seeds. Bake in an oven that was preheated to 200° for 25 minutes.Level of difficulty: Medium.Time: 2.5 hours.Status: Parve.Sweet rolls (Credit: PASCALE PEREZ-RUBIN AND CHAGIT GOREN) Translated by Hannah Hochner.
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