A symphony to one’s palate

Situated in Kikar Hamusica, Kinor Bakikar exudes charm, and it is clear that chef Kobi Katani is not just creating a restaurant but a destination.

Kinor Bakikar (photo credit: ETTI NAMIR)
Kinor Bakikar
(photo credit: ETTI NAMIR)
Having opened just over two years ago, Kinor Bakikar is already known in Jerusalem for its consistent style and high quality and is a favorite among many locals and visitors who are looking for a kosher meat restaurant where they can enjoy a fine dining experience.
Situated in Kikar Hamusica, the spacious complex just off Nahalat Shiva, the restaurant exudes charm, and it is clear that chef Kobi Katani is not just creating a restaurant but a destination, with regulars who go there as much for the warmth and friendship as for the food.
The service was first-class. We were immediately greeted by our waiter, who animatedly talked us through the wine list and the menu.
We began our meal with the beef fillet tartare (NIS 56). I know, beef tartare is not the most visually appealing dish in the world, so if you eat with your eyes, this might not be the best choice. But if you were to make an exception once in a while, I think it’s worth it in this case. The meat was very fresh and got me really excited about everything else to come. My favorite thing about this dish was the crispy fried wafers, which added a much-needed crunch element.
Next up was the grilled veal sweetbreads (NIS 69). This was a showstopper. The first bite of veal was an explosion of goodness that I wanted to savor forever. The sweetbreads were juicy, tender and cooked perfectly.
This was followed by one of Kinor’s signature dishes – lamb spareribs (NIS 69) in BBQ sauce, cream of root vegetables. Although a little fatty, the ribs were juicy, tender and pretty much falling off of the bone, with just the right amount of BBQ sauce. My inner caveman came out when I got down to the bones. Cleaning them off was possibly my favorite part of the meal.
After a bit of a breather, it was on to the mains. We started with the confit of duck (NIS 110) in a Cointreau sauce. All the ingredients worked in perfect harmony. The texture of the duck skin had a character of its own. It was crisp yet buttery – a pleasantly surprising contrast to the soft duck meat. The accompanying sweet potato puree complemented the duck to a T.
This was followed by the beef fillet (NIS 178). The meat had a lovely crust from the searing process, but was completely pink all the way through, and warmed through as well. The meat was so tender, it fell apart as I cut through it. The perfect supplements, which came in very generous portions, included potato gratin, grilled Portobello mushrooms and onions.
Last but not least, we were served the six-hour slow-cooked asado (NIS 138), which proved to be a big winner. Complete with prunes and grilled vegetables, the asado was juicy and tender and simply melted in the mouth.
After yet another breather, we were presented with dessert. First up was the hot chocolate soufflé. I wish I could have eaten more of it, but I was so full from everything else that I was going to start popping buttons if I continued. It came with vanilla ice cream, and that helped cool the chocolate lava in my mouth and add to the richness and flavor.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.
Kinor Bakikar
12 Yoel Salomon Street, Jerusalem
Tel: (02) 994-4902