The southern Golan Heights unfolds with a scale so immense that the horizon feels less like a boundary and more like a promise stretching endlessly forward. To understand this region, one must begin with the basalt cliffs of Kfar Haruv, where the landscape opens dramatically above the Kinneret. This vista carries centuries of memory, conflict, longing, and reinvention layered into every ridge and valley.
Politics still tries to claim ownership over this geography. Syrian leader Ahmed al-Sharaa has famously cultivated the nisba, or origin name, “al-Julani” to position himself as a displaced son of the Golan, tracing his family roots specifically to the Fiq-Kfar Haruv sector and invoking the issue publicly during high-profile diplomatic visits to Turkey as part of a broader question of unfinished sovereignty.
However, standing on those cliffs, the rhetoric feels strangely distant. What emerges instead is something much older and more grounded: a sanctuary of hospitality, memory, and human resilience remaining stronger than slogans and manufactured identities.
The roads that wind through the southern Golan seem to move in rhythm with the land itself. Curves open suddenly into vast expanses of rolling green, volcanic rock, and sharp mountain air. Even as spring matures, Mount Hermon still holds patches of snow across its peaks, watching silently over the region like a patient guardian. The wind carries a pristine clarity, sweeping across blooming lavender fields, cherry orchards, and quiet kibbutzim with a steady persistence.
Our journey through these heights was shaped by conversations with locals such as Liora Shimoni from the Tourism Department at the Golan Economic Association. She shared an essential perspective on the regional reality, emphasizing the balance between nationwide perceptions and the grounded experience on the plateau.
“Even during periods when national headlines focus heavily on events across the North, it remains crucial to remember that the Golan is a vast and diverse region, and as of this writing, a routine continues that allows for a full tourism experience,” she notes. “For many of our local tourism businesses, every cancellation or decision to avoid visiting directly affects livelihoods, the community, and the ability to keep growing. Right now, there is immense importance in the support of the Israeli public and international visitors for Golan tourism – to arrive, to hike, to stay, and to strengthen these local businesses, which are the beating heart of the area.”
Within this quiet, the work of local entrepreneurs provides a restorative energy, offering a profound sense of beauty and life that complements the enduring spirit of the heights.
Dudie’s: The philosophy of the first sip
Our transition from the intensity of the South into the restorative rhythm of the Golan began with a three-hour drive from Sderot. By the time we arrived at the entrance to Givat Yoav, the atmosphere had already shifted. The pace slowed. The air cooled. At Dudie’s, a restaurant that has operated for 13 years as both a culinary landmark and social gathering point, hospitality begins with something deceptively simple: a glass of water.
Dudie is a Level 4 chef and graduate of the prestigious Tadmor Culinary School. Before returning north, he managed large-scale kitchens aboard international cruise ships for Royal Caribbean. Eventually, the polished intensity of global hospitality lost its appeal. He describes that chapter of his life as a “golden cage,” professionally rewarding but emotionally disconnected from the land and people around him.
At Dudie’s, water becomes philosophy. Every guest receives a cold glass of local “Golan Water” before ordering anything else. Dudie explains the gesture as an expression of dignity and grounding. Water, in his view, is the most basic form of healing and hospitality. The tradition also reflects sensitivity toward families traveling through the area. Parents can sit comfortably knowing their children are welcomed first with something essential rather than commercial pressure.
This sense of consideration shapes the entire restaurant. The menu celebrates local sourcing with almost ideological commitment. Vegetables arrive fresh from nearby farmers. Beef comes from pasture-raised cattle in Nov and the surrounding villages. The restaurant itself attracts an unusually broad cross-section of visitors. Secular hikers, observant families, reserve soldiers, artists, tourists, and longtime Golan residents often share the same tables.
The culinary centerpiece remains Dudie’s legendary burger, widely considered among the finest in Israel. Thick, deeply flavorful, and unapologetically simple, it reflects the quality of the Golan itself. Steaks arrive perfectly seared. Meat platters showcase the richness of local cattle raised against the volcanic terrain. Nothing feels overly designed or performative. The experience is grounded in authenticity, allowing diners to absorb the essence of the region before venturing deeper into its landscapes.
Mitzpe Hashalom: Rebirthing on the cliffside
Mitzpe Hashalom, or “peace outlook,” sits dramatically on a basalt cliff inside Kibbutz Kfar Haruv, overlooking the Kinneret. Established more than 20 years ago as part of the kibbutz’s tourism initiative, the site remains highly integrated into community life.
At sunset, the light shifts slowly across the lake while the Arbel cliffs and Mount Tabor appear faintly in the distance. The atmosphere feels suspended between wilderness and stillness.
The accommodations are carefully designed to blend comfort and connection to nature. The resort includes 27 family cabins, along with 12 rooms in the couples’ complex. The family cabins are surrounded by lawns, balconies, hammocks, and tall pine trees. Children are naturally drawn toward the attic lofts accessible by ladder, while parents retreat into quieter lower bedrooms.
For couples, a separate cliffside complex offers private rooms with espresso machines, stone Jacuzzis, and architecture inspired by the nearby water-therapy pools. Mornings begin with fresh breakfast baskets and picnic blankets, encouraging guests to eat outdoors beneath the trees.
The deeper restorative quality of Mitzpe Hashalom revealed itself to us at dawn. At 6 a.m., I woke to catch the sunrise over the Kinneret, only to find that the lake had disappeared completely beneath a vast cloud. The view was no longer a view in the usual sense. It felt like walking inside a cloud, with the whole basin hidden beneath a soft white blanket, and the first light beginning to move through it.
I ventured out to explore the village below, following the path down into the wilderness below the cabins. The morning was still and raw. Jackals, wild boars, cows, and a variety of birds of prey belong to this landscape, and in that hour the place felt almost untouched by time. The trail eventually led to the ma’ayan, a cold-water spring surrounded by volcanic rock and reeds. After receiving our first sip of Golan water at Dudie’s the previous afternoon, this felt like the deeper continuation of the same initiation. In the first light of our first full day in the southern Golan, I entered the spring for a ritual bathing that was shockingly cold, cleansing, and immediate – a physical beginning to the journey through the heights.
The spring’s thriving frog population carries ecological significance. Amphibians are highly sensitive to environmental disruption because of their permeable skin, making their presence an important indicator of water purity and ecological health.
At the center of the retreat lies Ruach Al HaMayim, meaning “wind over the water.” The structure combines basalt, wood, mosaics, and mineral plaster beneath a large dome designed to evoke calm, safety, and rebirth.
Inside, therapist Adi Horwitz leads Watsu sessions, also known as water shiatsu, a form of bodywork in which a therapist stretches, massages, and cradles a person floating in warm water. My wife, Adi, and I experienced the treatment ourselves, and it turned the idea of relaxation into something physical and exact. Floating in the warm pool, the body gradually stops resisting. Breath slows. Muscles loosen. The mind, usually busy arranging the next thought, begins to surrender to the rhythm of the water.
Horwitz moved us gently through that rhythm, supporting the body while applying pressure to joints and guiding each movement with unusual sensitivity. There was no dramatic performance to it, only a steady invitation to let go. The sensation of floating remained long after the treatment ended, as if the body had briefly remembered a softer way to exist.
One staff member, we were told, arrived there in complete panic after discovering that her son, serving as a combat soldier in Jenin, had become trapped during an active military incident. Through the treatment, she gradually regained a sense of calm and grounding despite the uncertainty surrounding him.
Experiences like these have shaped the retreat’s mission. Mitzpe Hashalom hosts reservists and their partners through packages that combine overnight stays with water therapy, subsidized by the IDF. The result is a protected environment for rest and emotional recovery.
The site also became a major center of solidarity following the outbreak of war in October 2023. The kibbutz tourism board immediately chose to host evacuees from northern border communities before state funding had even been arranged.
Families from places such as Kiryat Shmona, Dan, and Snir remained there for nearly a year. The retreat transformed into a functioning community hub. Hagit, one of the site managers, partnered with organizations to build a kindergarten inside a reinforced shelter. Evacuees joined the workforce as well, such as Daniel from Kibbutz Hagoshrim, who initially arrived as a chef before eventually becoming the site’s maintenance manager.
Mitzpe Hashalom now acts as a regional base camp, regularly sending guests recommendations encouraging them to support nearby wineries, restaurants, farms, and businesses across the southern Golan.
Ein Keshatot: The industry of life and the pulse of resilience
A short drive away lies Ein Keshatot, “the spring of the arches,” one of the most significant heritage sites in the region. Few places in Israel capture the continuity of Jewish communal life with such emotional force. The site feels ancient, yet still active and relevant.
Avishag Mironi, manager of the national heritage site, greeted us with a passion that immediately transformed the ruins into something deeply personal. Since opening in 2018, the center has become a cultural anchor for the southern Golan. Operated under the Golan Regional Council, it draws visitors from across the Jewish world. Orthodox prayer groups, secular Israeli families, Diaspora delegations, and egalitarian bar mitzvah ceremonies all gather naturally within the same ancient space.
For Mironi, this is what makes Ein Keshatot so powerful today. It is not only an archaeological site but also a living meeting point where memory becomes a communal experience. She described Ein Keshatot as a central site of the Golan Regional Council and a place that tells the story of ancient Jewish settlement in the region.
That modern-day restoration is remarkable. The 6h-century synagogue, which collapsed in the devastating earthquake of 749 CE, was rebuilt stone by stone through groundbreaking technology. Each basalt block was scanned into a digital system, mapped through a precise three-dimensional model, and returned to its original place. The result is not a replica but a physical reassembling of a Jewish village that had vanished for centuries.
The visit begins independently at the entrance pavilion, perched on a cliff overlooking the Kinneret and the lower slopes of the Golan. A five-minute film introduces the story of the site with impressive professionalism, suitable for children and adults alike. From there, families follow a circular walking route of about 40 minutes through the ruins of the ancient Jewish village, beginning near the spring and its arches, then moving from site to site until reaching the restored synagogue.
For us, this became one of the most meaningful family experiences of the journey. My sons Lavie, 10, and Eitam, 7, each held the map with real excitement, moving through the site as if piecing together a living puzzle. The optional family treasure-hunt game gave them motivation to look closely, answer questions, and move with curiosity from one part of the village to the next. The interactive, engaging experience is geared toward families, allowing children to participate actively with archaeology rather than simply walking past stones and signs.
The final stop, inside the restored synagogue, was extremely moving. The rows of chairs set within the ancient structure made it possible to imagine a Jewish ceremony taking place there today, against the backdrop of the Golan Heights and the Kinneret. Standing there carried the emotional force of other great world heritage sites that I have visited, from Angkor Wat in Cambodia to ancient ruins in Antigua, Guatemala; yet here, the connection felt immediate and personal. The boys were thrilled to complete the treasure hunt, open it after answering the questions, and receive a small prize at the end.
Below the synagogue lies the spring that once sustained the community’s daily life and local industry. Massive Roman arches surround pools used for processing flax into luxury white linen, while the surrounding volcanic terrain supported olive cultivation and regional trade. These details give the ruins a rare human texture: prayer above, work below, and an entire village economy held together by water, agriculture, and faith.
Even this restored landscape has been touched by the current war. A drone strike ignited fires that damaged surrounding vegetation and historic trees. In response, Taglit-Birthright groups continued arriving throughout the crisis, volunteering to replant and restore damaged areas. For Mironi, that act of renewal belongs to the same story as the synagogue itself: a place broken by history, rebuilt through determination, and still gathering people around it.
Today, alongside these ancient remains, a modern coffee truck called Mala serves visitors against the same sweeping landscape. Founded by Ze’ev and Anat after years of traveling through Asia, the small café embodies the region’s dialogue between ancient continuity and contemporary searching. Fresh coffee, local pastries, and quiet conversation now coexist beside the industrial heart of a Byzantine-era village.
Susita: The skeletal grandeur of Hippos
The journey continues toward Susita National Park, known historically as Hippos. The ancient city rises dramatically atop a flat mountain overlooking the Sea of Galilee, commanding one of the most breathtaking views in the entire region.
The ruins feel almost skeletal against the landscape. White limestone columns stand beside black volcanic basalt, while sharp mountain winds move freely through collapsed streets and open courtyards.
The most striking surviving structure is the basilica, once the largest roofed building in the Roman city. Positioned beside the forum, it served as the center of civic life where commerce, legal proceedings, and guild meetings took place.
The basilica originally consisted of a vast central hall surrounded by four aisles. Rows of towering columns supported a gabled roof rising 17 meters high, allowing the building to host hundreds of people simultaneously. Although constructed during the late 1st century CE, the entire structure collapsed in the earthquake of 363 CE.
Today, the remaining columns frame the blue expanse of the Kinneret with tranquil elegance. Walking through the ruins feels strangely intimate, despite the monumental scale. Silence dominates the mountaintop. Only the wind breaks the stillness, weaving through the ancient pillars and connecting the geological violence that formed the Golan with the architectural ambitions of the civilizations that once flourished here.
Ramot: The culinary alchemy of the chicken coop and the cabin
Ramot sits at a transitional elevation where the lower Golan rises gradually above the Kinneret. The community combines agriculture, hospitality, and food culture in a way that feels strongly tied to family history.
At LOL ART, sisters Daniele and Or transformed the family’s old chicken coop into a creative bakery and gathering space. The coop once belonged to their beloved parents, Nava and Moïse, pioneers of the Jewish community in the Golan and among the founders of Moshav Ramot, who arrived here in 1972. Moïse, who is no longer with them, remains at the heart of the place. The café was founded by Tal, Or’s partner, in his memory and in his name.
The experience at the café is defined by a respect for slow, intentional processes. The bakery works its dough for 72 hours before shaping it into its signature Garmoshka, or “accordion,” a pastry filled with berry coulis and custard cream. Another unique creation, the Nut Cube, combines silky hazelnut filling with flavors reminiscent of Kinder chocolate.
The sisters’ food truck, acclaimed as one of the best in the country, has developed a strong reputation across Israel. Vegetable patties made from zucchini and carrots sit alongside salmon bagels made out of local croissants.
On Fridays, the atmosphere becomes particularly lively. Reserve soldiers on leave, families, local residents, artists, and travelers gather together throughout the space.
Visitors often move between the café and the LOL ART workshops, where participants create basalt-inspired pieces through hands-on sanding and painting sessions. The facility regularly hosts large group events, which include IDF units participating in team-building and restorative workshops.
As evening approaches, the journey naturally shifts toward Habikta, or “the cabin,” a meat restaurant managed by Gadi Azoulay as part of his larger hospitality complex.
Azoulay’s approach to food remains uncompromisingly tied to the land. Beef is sourced directly from cattle raised on the open volcanic pastures surrounding nearby villages like Nov. Every cut carries the flavor of the terrain itself.
The dinner platters reflect the rugged honesty of the Golan. Preparation remains restrained and direct, allowing the meat’s quality to dominate the experience. Alongside restaurant service, Azoulay also prepares specialized Shabbat meals for guests staying in cabins and nearby accommodations.
This tradition allows travelers to carry the spirit of the region into the quiet rituals of Friday evening. The restorative atmosphere of the Golan extends beyond restaurants and landscapes into the intimate rhythms of shared meals and pockets of calm.
The restorative mission of the southern Golan
The southern Golan ultimately reveals itself as much more than a travel destination. It operates as a landscape of restoration where history, trauma, beauty, and resilience remain in constant dialogue.
At Ein Keshatot, ancient ruins rise again through advanced technology and collective determination. At Mitzpe Hashalom, warm and cold mineral waters help exhausted visitors reconnect with themselves amid the pressures of war and uncertainty. In restaurants, bakeries, springs, and lavender fields, local residents continue to insist on life, creativity, and human connection.
Every encounter throughout the region reinforces the same grounding realization: Healing emerges through connection. Connection to land. Connection to memory. Connection to community.
Beneath the watchful peaks of Mount Hermon and across the volcanic basalt of the heights, the southern Golan offers something increasingly rare in modern life. It provides silence without emptiness, resilience without performance, and beauty that asks nothing of the viewer except presence.
In that stillness, even the hardest basalt begins to feel unexpectedly soft.