The month of Heshvan is an interim period between the Festival of Water (Succot) and the Festival of Oil (Hanukka) and is therefore a perfect opportunity to discuss the role that water and oil (and everything in between) play in our baking. The most common liquids used in baking are water, oil and eggs. Each interact differently in dough and contribute specific characteristics to the end product. Water is the universal solvent, and is most commonly used in bread dough because it is a dough “toughener,” providing the characteristic glutinous, chewy crumb structure we are familiar with. Before water is added, the other dough ingredients are inert. The magic begins with the addition of water. Myriad chemical reactions begin to take place involving the flour, yeast, sugar, salt, etc. Starch granules in the flour soak up water and swell. Proteins in the flour combine to form gluten. Enzymes in the flour break down complex sugars into glucose, which the yeast begins to feed on, thus starting the fermentation process. Salt and sugar dissolve in the water and influence chemical reaction with their ionic and osmotic properties. Mixing and kneading accelerate the process and facilitate the formation of the gluten network, a multilayered “spider's web” network of elastic fibers. The chemistry of dough formation is highly complex, due to the numerous agents and interactions present. As a baker, what is important to know is that water contributes to the “rubberiness” and “crispiness” of the baked product. If you want the crumb of your baked product to be more rubbery in texture, the liquid of choice in the dough is water. If you want the crust to be crispy, you will spray or baste it with water prior to baking. Crispy French baguettes are made this way by injecting steam into the oven during baking. As we know, water and oil are diametric opposites. It is not surprising therefore that the effect of oil in the dough is opposite to that of water. Oil is a dough “softener” and has a tenderizing effect on the dough. It is most commonly used in baked products that have a cake-like texture, such as hallot, cakes and cookies. Unlike water, which increases the elasticity of the dough, oil has the opposite effect. It retards the formation of the gluten network by lubricating the protein molecules in the dough and preventing them from adhering to one another. Addition of large quantities of oil to bread dough is not advised as it interferes with the ability of the dough to rise. However, small ratios of oil in bread dough are commonplace, especially in industrial bakeries and Italian breads. Additions of small ratios of oil to bread dough make it more workable in the machinery of the modern industrial bakery. The Italians add it to their breads, like pizza and ciabatta, both for the flavor it provides (olive oil is most common) and for the crispy texture of the crust. Paradoxically, oil makes the inside crumb softer, but the outer crust crispier if baked at high temperatures (over 250°). To understand this, think of frying potato chips. The hot oil dehydrates the exterior by evaporating all the water, thus making it crispy. The same thing happens to bread crust containing oil, which is exposed to higher temperatures than the interior. An additional perk of adding oil to bread is that it retards the staling process, keeping it fresher for longer. Another softening agent is eggs. Eggs have an effect similar to oil on dough, making the crumb more cake-like. It is therefore understandable that eggs and oil (or solid fats such as butter/margarine, which have the same effect as oil) are the main liquid ingredients in cakes and cookies. Eggs are commonly added to hallot to make their crumb more cake-like. Hallot are routinely basted with egg or egg-water solution, making the crust softer and less crispy. Egg yolks are rich in lecithin, nature's emulsifier. Emulsifiers basically allow you to combine oil and water. Their molecules have a hydrophobic end that attaches to the oil and a hydrophylic end that attaches to the water and brings the two together. This improved distribution of water and oil in the dough leads to a softer, more tender product. If we think of Tishrei as the water month and Kislev as the oil month, then Heshvan is undoubtedly the egg month, acting as a bridge between the two. So perhaps now is the time to rediscover eggs, both in baking and in general. Eggs are making a comeback following the bad reputation they received in the last century because of their cholesterol content. More recent research has shown that eggs are not harmful, as previously thought, and are actually beneficial, lowering LDL levels (the bad fat) and raising the HDL (good fat) in our bloodstream. I wish you an eggcellent month! Snickerdoodles Delicious soft cookies with cinnamon 240 gr. butter/margarine 1½ cups sugar 2 eggs 1 tsp. vanilla essence 2 cups flour 1 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. salt Cream butter and sugar. Add eggs and vanilla. Add dry ingredients and mix briefly (don't overmix). Roll into a 40-cm. long cylindrical log. Wrap in baking paper and refrigerate for at least three hours. Cut into cookie-size discs. Roll cookies in cinnamon sugar mix (2½ cups sugar, 4 tsp. cinnamon). Bake at 180º for 10 to 12 minutes. The writer, a master baker originally from Johannesburg, South Africa, lives in Ginot Shomron with his wife Sheryl and four children. He is CEO of the Saidel Artisan Baking Institute (www.saidels.com), which specializes in training and education in the field of organic, healthy, artisan baking and the inventor of Rambam Bread. He also lectures and works as a consultant in the fields of cereal chemistry, health and nutrition.
Olive oil pouring into bowl of salad(photo credit: ING IMAGE/ASAP)