A mixed grill

Wang's in Eilat serves a fusion of Californian and Far Eastern cuisine, with other innovative influences as well.

By MIRIAM TAL
egg rolls 311 (photo credit: courtesy)
egg rolls 311
(photo credit: courtesy)
When planning a vacation to Eilat, tourists picture luxurious hotels, sprawling beaches, coral reefs and VAT-free shopping. Fine restaurants are usually not on the menu. So a spectacular meal at Wang’s Grill at the foot of Isrotel’s Royal Beach Hotel on a recent visit to the country’s southern resort was a welcome surprise.
The restaurant is described as a fusion of Californian and Far Eastern cuisine, but dishes such as fish and chips suggest other influences as well. Wang’s recently launched a new menu with an emphasis on modern, inventive food.
When we arrived at the restaurant in the early evening, the place was empty but it quickly filled up with local and international tourists.
We tried a selection of appetizers, which were served attractively on trendy white dishes with dipping sauces and Asian-style salads. The stand-outs were the seared goose liver medallions on pineapple tartar and rice cakes (NIS 118) and egg rolls filled with chicken and vegetables served with chili-lime and soy sauces (NIS 49). The liver was perfectly cooked and paired nicely with its tangy accompaniment. The fish and chips (NIS 62), a novel interpretation of the British favorite, consisted of white fish filets fried in a tempura batter served with battercoated sweet potatoes and tomato, lemon and saffron salts.
Traditionalists will miss the malt vinegar, but we were satisfied.
We also tried the tuna roll (NIS 59) and the chicken salad (NIS 62) – chicken strips tossed with cabbage and crispy noodles in a mayonnaise, soy and chili dressing, which the waitress said the restaurant is known for.
Already feeling fairly full but tempted by the appetizing list of entrees, we ordered duck breast in dried miso on a bed of (delicious) steamed vegetables in a kirin sauce (NIS 94) and beef filet medallions served on potato puree in plum sauce (NIS 124). The duck was tender and cooked to perfection (if you like it rare), and so flavorful that it almost tasted like beef. As for the filet, my dining partner, who rarely finishes a steak, ate every last morsel with gusto.
The meal was long on protein, but the vegetables also starred so that we didn’t finish the meal feeling overly stuffed with heavy foods. It was refreshing to see so much attention paid by the chef to humble greens.
For dessert we were once again offered a selection of taster-sized portions. Most memorable was the chocolate souffle accompanied by vanilla ice cream and basil sauce (NIS 42). The cake, warm and tasty, bore no resemblance to the ubiquitous dessert offered in almost every restaurant here.
Wang’s offers beautifully presented, innovative food that is not so complex or pretentious that it leaves the diner analyzing every component and wondering if the flavors complement or clash with each other.
The food is fairly expensive, but the appetizer portions are generous enough that a couple could simply order two or three selections and skip the entree.
The service was attentive and friendly.
If we didn’t live more than 350 km. away, we would love to eat at Wang’s regularly. But I strongly recommend that vacationers pay a visit to the restaurant, and I look forward to returning there.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.

Wang’s Grill Kosher Royal Promenade, Eilat. 057-944- 2737 Open Sunday to Thursday 7-11 p.m. Saturday evening 8:30-11 p.m.