ExperienceWhen Elkiam got out of the army in 1984, he joined a cousin in Paris who owned a chain of restaurants called Papa Joe. Elkiam worked with him for two years in Paris, then moved on to work in the company’s restaurants in Germany, Belgium and Dallas, Texas.“I was working all over the kitchens,” he says.How it started When he returned to Israel in 2000, Elkiam opened a branch of Papa Joe in the German Colony, but a dispute with a neighbor forced him to close. Two years later, he opened the well-known Olive restaurant on Rehov Emek Refaim, which he operated for six years.“I used to eat in the River Noodle Bar in Rishon Lezion, Rehovot and Ramat Gan. I liked the cuisine of the Asian kitchen with an Israeli taste; it was suited to Israelis,” he says.So he left Olive and opened River Noodle Bar in 2008.Elkiam, who supervises a kitchen staff of five, comes in at 10 in the morning to make sure all the workers are there, and then they get ready to serve lunch at noon.The decorThe main dining area, with New York-style decor, seats 120 including the bar, where diners can see into the open kitchen. Black wood tables with black leather chairs in various configurations offer a striking contrast to the Japanese-style white vertical blinds on one wall. There are small and large tables, and even a round table to seat 10 with partial seating on a couch. What makes this dining area unusual is a control that opens the roof. There are also elegant gold chandeliers that provide light.A private room seats 50 with small and large tables, a striking marble table in the middle, an oval table at the bar with four TV screens above, small booths and another roof that can be opened with a control.Outside, wicker tables and chairs for 40 are arranged under large, white umbrellas.“Five months ago, the architect won an award reported in Ma’ariv with this project,” Elkiam says.CuisineEvery day there are two or three specials, and every six months one of the specials is moved to the permanent menu.On the regular menu are six sushi combinations, 11 kinds of “River” maki, nine kinds of noodles and nine kinds of rice, as well as ramen noodle soups and desserts. There is also a children’s menu offering schnitzel or chicken and noodles with rice.Every three months, the restaurant features a winery. Binyamina was being featured when we visited.Most popular item on the menuThe most popular items on the menu are Musho Entrecote with Cucumber Salad in Miso Chili Sauce with Tortillas – stir fried noodles with goose liver, chicken breast, cabbage, soy sprouts, carrots and red onions.Elkiam prepared the Musho Entrecote for In Jerusalem to sample, along with the Green Salad – a trio of lettuces in a vinaigrette dressing with three kinds of peanuts.Favorite item on the menuKing Kong – stir-fried noodles with chicken liver, three kinds of mushrooms, red onion and chili pepper (not for the timid).
Biggest accomplishment“I feed 300 people every day!”Biggest cooking failure“We don’t talk about failures! We don’t sell failures!” Elkiam says with a laugh.
Best part of the jobAs owner and chef, “You can do what you like and you get rewards for it.”Who cooks at home?Elkiam says his wife cooks “and sometimes me too.”River Israeli Asian Kitchen is located at Rehov Rabbi Akiva 6, Tel: 622-2083. It is open Sunday through Thursday from noon until midnight. On Fridays the restaurant hosts special events only, and on Saturday evenings it opens one hour after the end of Shabbat until 1 a.m. Kosher. Musho Entrecote4 tortillas 1⁄3 cup chopped lettuce 180 gr. entrecote 1 cucumber slivered vertically 1⁄2 cup chopped onions 1 tsp. oil 2 Tbsp. red miso chopped green onionsPlace tortillas on the grill, and grill until brown on both sides, about two minutes. Place lettuce on serving plate.Chop entrecote in bite-sized pieces. Fold tortillas in quarters and place atop the lettuce. Add slivered cucumber to plate.Heat oil in a wok. Add onions and shake until soft. Add meat and stir fry for 1.5 to 2 minutes. Add red miso and continue to stir fry for another 2 minutes. Place on the plate. Garnish with green onions.To eat, open the tortilla, add a few cucumber slivers, the entrecote and onions, and fold in half.Makes 2 servings.