Dining: BBQ at its best

For the true meat lover, Truck Deluxe is the real deal.

By JASON MESKIN
June 3, 2015 17:14
3 minute read.
Restaurants in Tel Aviv

Truck Deluxe restaurant. (photo credit: PR)

 
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In the past couple of years, Tel Aviv has been seeing an increase in true BBQ restaurants. We’re no longer tied to just a parboiled rib slathered in BBQ sauce and then slapped onto a grill. Truck Deluxe is the real deal.

Located on Ben-Ami Street at Dizengoff Center, Truck Deluxe is in effect a lighter spin-off of the Jaffa restaurant Pundak Deluxe.

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The restaurant has an interesting set-up, as the first thing you notice when you walk in is a truck that has been pulled apart and reconstructed as part of the kitchen. Cans of motor oil adorn the walls, and one can almost imagine the venue as a backyard garage.

The meat at Truck is locally chosen – spare ribs, brisket, sausage, chicken and much more. My dining companion and I were immediately served delicious cocktails to start, setting the tone for an evening of fine food.

For starters, we chose the Buffalo wings (NIS 39). I am always hesitant to get wings because they never cook them enough and they have that raw fat on them. These didn’t. The wings were seasoned well and fried perfectly crispy, even when eaten cold an hour later! They came with three delicious dipping sauces including a tangy horseradish.

This was followed by one of the best goose legs (NIS 49) I’ve ever had.

The meat was juicy and flavorful, with a nice crisp on the skin. Cooked perfectly, rich, moist and flavorful, I’m drooling thinking about it now. The veal sausage (NIS 32) was really flavorful and delicious, with the perfect amount of herbs and seasonings.



Most BBQ joints focus on the meat and serve average sides. However, the sides at Truck are also fantastic. The mac and cheese (NIS 12/NIS 16) was among my favorites. Not only was it creamy and savory, but it also tasted homemade rather than those boxed, easy mac ‘n’ cheese, that you would find in other restaurants. We also really enjoyed the skinny French fries smothered in jack cheese (NIS 18).

Other sides include corn cob, baked beans, cabbage, mint and yogurt and fennel salad.

After a well-deserved breather and some more cocktails, we were served the trailer trash burger (NIS 53). This burger is beyond words. The fact that the burger managed to stay together without falling apart was a testament to the well-selected bun. All the meat is so flavorful and works well together.

No part overpowers or detracts from the overall goal of the burger, and each bite leaves you wanting more.

This was followed by veal tongue (NIS 26 per 100 gr.). Okay, so you’re either a lover or a hater of tongue. I am a lover, so I thoroughly enjoyed this dish. Sliced very thin, the tongue was juicy and flavorful.

For dessert, we tried the sinful crack pie (NIS 35). With just the right amount of salty-sweet, the crust is made from oatmeal cookie, and the filling is a mix of butter, sugar, heavy whipping cream and other goodies… but mostly butter! Just one bite, and you realize why it’s called crack pie.

We also shared an American ice cream sundae drizzled with homemade salted caramel (NIS 15), which had a perfect balance of creaminess, saltiness and sweetness.

Overall, it was a great satisfying meal that really hit the spot when craving some real barbecue. This is not an elegant dining establishment.

It is a place for serious meat eaters. My only warning: It is an absurd amount of food. I could only eat half and had the rest for lunch the next day (and it was still really good!). I will definitely be going there again.

The writer was a guest of the restaurant.

Truck Deluxe
Not kosher
13 Ben-Ami St., Tel Aviv
(03) 629-6363

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