Hungarian heritage hoard

By AVIVA BAR-AM
Until the Holocaust, at least a million Hungarian-speaking Jews lived in Hungary, Transylvania, Slovakia and nearby regions. Their history dated back well over 1,000 years and their culture gave birth to some of the world's top musicians, scholars and scientists. More than two-thirds of the Hungarian-speaking Jewish population was murdered in the Holocaust, its communities destroyed. The first Hungarian-speaking Jews reached Safed in 1826, with more arriving at the beginning of the 20th century and, of course, after the Holocaust. Decades passed until, 18 years ago, Safed Hungarian speakers Hava and Yossi Lustig realized that there wasn't a single museum in the world dedicated to their heritage. Gathering together other Hungarian speakers from Galilee, the Lustigs founded the Memorial Museum of Hungarian-Speaking Jewry. It is run completely by volunteers, including the curator and computer expert who prepare its excellent programs. On the day we visited, Hava Lustig guided us through the museum. Hava explained that everything in the museum was a gift, from matza covers to a copper lamp - a wedding present dating back to 1830. So was a porcelain coffee set from 1874, and a cupboard decorated with a picture of Rachel's Tomb. Look for a flag, discovered in a Hungarian storeroom after the war. It was sent to "Yossale" in 1942 by someone in Jerusalem. You can tell it is from this country by the kova tembel (hat worn by pioneers) on a child's head. Don't miss the audio-visual presentation describing the history of Hungarian-speaking Jewry. Explore each item in the room devoted to the Holocaust and the Jewish Resistance. And ask museum volunteers to show you a recent discovery: the Holy Ark (and Torah scrolls) from the synagogue in Tokaj, Hungary. The synagogue, dating back to 1896, was completely destroyed, and the ark was found only by chance. It has now been restored to its original beauty. You can reach the museum from the old entrance to Safed (Highway 8900) by turning onto Rehov Yerushalayim and going left onto Rehov Palmah. Find the museum behind the ancient Seraya (Turkish administration building with clock tower).