Italian delight and a modern twist on tacos: Two restaurants in Herzliya doing it right

Nono in Herzliya is one of those places that manages to walk the fine line between a precise restaurant and an accessible family institution, one that feels comfortable hosting both gourmets and children asking for "more ketchup." This is not a compromise; it is a broad culinary language. The new winter menu, created by chef Hillel Tavakuli - one of the standout names of the local chef generation and the mind behind the excellent late Animar-emphasizes how it is possible to speak in two voices at once: Complexity and depth, warmth and generosity.

Tavakuli does not change the Italian DNA of Nono, he deepens it. The chef uses winter as an intellectual ingredient: Long cooking, deep flavors, comforting fattiness, alongside lighter dishes that balance the heaviness. The approach is evident from the start: Focaccia and dips (NIS 29) arrive warm and aromatic with tomato cream and artichoke aioli - a simple but precise nod to the Italian tradition of bread and sauces as a prelude to the meal.

Roasted Pepper Arancini (NIS 52) are a small lesson in balance: Risotto and mozzarella balls, crispy outside and soft inside, served on roasted peppers, tomato cream, and lemon aioli. This dish manages to be both "bar" and "kitchen." The winter salad (NIS 76) expands the spectrum: White and purple endive, green beans, pickled onions, persimmon, Bousha cheese, and caramelized cashews, all brought together with a citrus vinaigrette that connects sweetness, bitterness, and freshness.

For mains, winter is present in full. Paleron (NIS 128), slow-cooked beef shoulder, sits on mashed potatoes, accompanied by forest mushrooms in brown butter and sage. This is a classic European dish, which could be placed somewhere between a French bistro and Northern Italian territory. Even the pizzas wear seasonal attire. We tried the Arancè pizza (NIS 68) with roasted sweet potato and pumpkin, topped with hazelnuts (surprising) and a runny sunny-side-up egg in the center - what a brilliance. Here too, pizza becomes a platform for culinary thought.

Nono does not seek to reinvent Italian food, but rather to deepen it, adapt it to the season, and translate it into a local, familial, and intelligent language. Tavakuli’s winter menu achieves this delicately and confidently, a confidence that comes only to those who know both the tradition and their audience well.

Among all bread-based carbohydrates, which form a cornerstone of fast Israeli cuisine, the taco seems like the underappreciated stepchild: Trailing far behind Italian pizza, Middle Eastern laffa, and the American bun. While the local pita acts as a hermetic vault protecting ingredients and preventing sauces from “attacking,” the Mexican taco insists on an open, free, unrestrained structure, inviting the diner to a dangerous dance.

However, in a delivery ordered from the kosher Rapidos in Herzliya, we discovered that this openness is exactly the secret of its charm. The menu offers a modern interpretation, a breath of fresh air. We sampled Birria tacos (NIS 62 for three pieces) with slow-cooked beef and vegan cheese, and fried fish tacos with guacamole, lemon aioli, and red chili (NIS 42 for two pieces). Both demonstrated depth of flavor and excellent meaty texture. Despite the challenging structure of the tortilla, quality prevailed.

Spicy food lovers are invited to try the Rapidos Spicy Crispy Chicken (NIS 59), a dish born from collaboration with the top brand Tabasco. The wrap, which encloses crispy, high-quality chicken, is accompanied by a sweet-spicy sauce that provides balanced heat and aromatic complexity derived from long barrel fermentation. The combination of the chicken’s crispiness and Tabasco’s distinctive kick creates a bite that is both harmonious and bold.

In the bowl section, the fish bowl (NIS 57) with fish pieces proves that Rapidos knows how to handle more delicate ingredients. The fish arrived perfectly cooked, placed on a fresh bed of vegetables, fruits, and rice, offering a light and soothing counterpoint. Rapidos successfully bridges the gap between street food and refined dining, making the experience worth getting a little messy for.

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