As a critic who has seen it all - from high-end kitchens in Paris to street stalls in Beijing - I thought my palate was immune to surprises, until a delivery from JMT arrived. A year after landing in South Tel Aviv and cementing its place, the South Korean noodle spot proves it’s far more than a passing trend of wild colors. If you thought the extreme Squid Game-style dishes appeared out of nowhere, after tasting these crazy creations, you’ll realize it all starts in the family pot, in a kitchen where boldness is a way of life.
Jjajangmyeon (NIS 72) - don’t even try pronouncing it - is a local classic born from Chinese influences. The beating heart here is chunjang, a fermented black bean paste that gives the dish a dark, dramatic color and deep, earthy flavor. The thick sauce coats soft udon noodles, chicken, and potato cubes, topped with a soy-marinated soft egg that enriches the velvety texture. And truthfully, this is still a relatively gentle dish compared to what comes next.
Bulgogi Bibimbap (NIS 84) showcases one of Korean cuisine’s brilliant techniques: the use of pickled eggs. The egg’s enzymes tenderize the thin slices of beef to a level of complete surrender in the mouth, balancing the sweetness of the red onion. It’s a delicate play of textures and flavors, proving that even within chaos, there’s a skilled, guiding hand. In a single bowl, we found a combination of salty, sweet, sour, and spicy: rice, sprouts, pickled red cabbage, carrot, takuan (sweet Japanese radish), toasted sesame seeds, nori seaweed, and blanched spinach. A surprisingly daring dish, to say the least.
The boldness peaks with the Gimbap Crazy Salmon Roll (NIS 72). It’s an explosion of contrasts: A fried, crispy, piping-hot outer layer, with a fresh core of salmon, avocado, and sweet potato. Sushi on steroids - both in size and in flavor combination. This is street food at its grandest: Indulgent, incredibly photogenic, and unapologetic.
Alongside all of this is the kimchi (NIS 36), which holds the heart of traditional cuisine. It’s not just a salad but the result of a complex fermentation of Chinese cabbage and ginger, dyed bright red by gochugaru, smoked red chili flakes, and hidden sweetness. The fiery heat and precise fermentation cut through the heaviness of the other dishes, serving as an essential palate cleanser in this aggressive flavor journey.
JMT is a culinary experience, one of the most exciting in Tel Aviv’s delivery scene, demanding that the Israeli palate release the familiar and surrender to Korean extremes. And it simply works.
JMT – John Matang, 3 Ahuzat Bayit Street, Tel Aviv (Delivery via Wolt and Tabit)
Meat and Challenges
I always approach the kosher cheeseburger test with caution tinged with skepticism. Recreating the synergy between beef and cheese without using dairy is one of the most challenging feats in the culinary world. But a delivery from Burger Station, the burger chain with 17 locations, proves that in today’s era, with the quality of vegan cheeses, the task is not only possible - it’s executed brilliantly. Here, the beef takes the spotlight, resulting in a patty with a coarse, proper texture that retains juiciness even from griddle to cardboard box.
Smash Ash is a bold, modern take on the smash-burger style that has taken the world by storm. Here, two 110-gram patties are pressed on the griddle to create the perfect Maillard effect (caramelized browning). The dish is boosted with sriracha - a spicy sauce originating in the Thai coastal city of Si Racha, made from chili peppers, garlic, and vinegar. The combination of Thai heat, garlic confit, and onion jam creates depth that complements the beef. Two slices of vegan cheese melt perfectly, providing the greasy, indulgent coating that makes a burger sinfully delicious (NIS 66).
The next dish can only be described in one word: Outrageous. The “excessive” burger is a carnivore courage test. It’s 400 grams of beef (two giant patties) loaded with pulled asado and smoked asado strips - a cut from the ribs requiring long, careful cooking to become tender. On top sits foie gras and a fried egg that bursts and ties everything together with smoked barbecue sauce. This dish demands extreme hunger or a daring soul (NIS 109).
Alongside these, we snacked on crispy mashed potato balls. Here, the play is on texture: An especially golden, crisp shell that shatters into a soft, airy potato core. The perfect accompaniment to the dominant dishes (super fair price: NIS 24 for 12 balls).
Burger Station chain, 17 locations across Israel (kosher)